Sunday, November 13, 2011
JETBLUEING TO PORTLAND, MAINE
I couldn't resist a bargain with Jet Blue airlines' $49 one way from New York's JFK to Portland, Maine. Not that it's Jet Blue's fault, but it appears that my plane always winds up at the furthest gate from the baggage claim.
Staying at the Portland Harbor Hotel on Fore Street. Amongst other amenities is their car service that will not only take you to and from the airport, they will drop you off and pick you up anywhere in the downtown area.
Norman Forgey of Maine Day Trips was showing me the area for most of the trip. We coordinated the itinerary prior to my arriving and decided to make our way to Kennebunkport first touring some of the port area, where my hotel is located.
Rather than going straight to Kennebunkport's downtown area, we veered off to a resort called Hidden Pond to have lunch at their restaurant, Earth, located at Goose Rock Road in a birch forest with balsam trees along a pond.
There are several areas to dine. The main building reveals a rustic atmosphere with a first view of a working fireplace on the right and a huge bar on the left. The wall of the bar is decorated in bottles of liquor and "top shelf" goes no far than about the 3rd shelf. Tables and chairs are not on top of each other and there is a partial open kitchen on one end, where you can see some of the cooking and especially the preparation and baking of the pizzas in the wood fired oven.
Another area, enclosed, gives you a view of the gardens and pond. Outside you can either sit at tables amongst the vegetable garden, at a separate area with umbrellas, or a private dining room that is a converted shed. That is where I dined. It has a long table and wonderfully full of decorations.
Now that I've told you about all of the ambiance, what truly counts is the food. You know the expression "farm to table"? This is "farm to fork" since much is taken directly from the garden. Yes, as I dined in the shed I could see different chefs picking the ingredients. If it doesn't come from the gardens, most likely the cheeses, meats, lobster, etc. are local.
Famed chef Ken Oringer is the consultant, Kevin Walsh is the Executive Chef and Meghann is the Sous Chef. It was Meghann who determined the tasting and was wise.
Oysters: Pemaquid oysters with fresh coriander and cucumber topped with bachelor button flowers. Best raw oyster topping I've come across. Blue edible flowers from the garden.
Tomato Salad: Heirloom tomato salad with lovage (a flowery herb), perslane, (another tasty herb that a bit more leafy), black garlic, (a sweeter garlic with an almost jelly-like texture), and sweet Maine fried clams.
Gazpacho: Cucumber, melon, almond, garden herbs, topped with yogurt foam and chili oil. Certainly far from the usual gazpacho, both inventive and savory.
Margherita Pizza: Hand stretched dough topped with san morzano tomatoes, Flore di Nonno's daily hand-made mozzarella cheese, grated parm, basil and arugula(from the garden). Thin crust, just the way I like it.
Bigoli: House made bigoli (a fat spaghetti) with spicy lobster and lobster mushrooms with nepitalla (a wild herb in the mint family). It was the first time that I saw lobster mushrooms. They are hearty and bright orange in color.
Monkfish: Wood oven seared monkfish, red quinoa, garden beans, olives and crushed hazelnuts. Monkfish prepared correctly is wonderful in itself. The additions bring out the entree.
Fried Chicken: Buttermilk soaked, pasture raised, fried chicken with bacon braised chard and sweet potato cornbread. Had to taste the fried chicken! Yummy!
After departing, we went into downtown Kennebunkport. I was told to see Steve, the owner of the Clam Shack. I did taste a clam or two and had the lobster roll and New England clam chowder to go. I wanted to compare lobster rolls during my trip. This one had about a half pound of lobster meat, the amount that would come out of a 1 lb. lobster. No additions, just some mayo on the roll. Good clam chowder. Not salty or too full of potatoes.
Touring around we could only view Bush's summer home from a distance. It was then back to Portland where some sights and a bit of history were pointed out.
Finally got a chance to check into my room. I had requested a refrigerator and microwave as I knew there would be leftovers and other food purchased. Learned to ask to have the filter on the air conditioner changed. Although the hotel was pretty good, overall, I did have some problems. How do you shut down an elevator without informing the guests? I'm on the 4th floor and was planning to take a sunrise cruise the next morning and it was not to be completed until just about the time I would depart. No one was able to give me an answer until days after I got back to New York and after leaving several messages with the General Manager of the hotel. Other problems but will leave it for now.
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