KING OF CORONA IS LEMON ICE

There are a few iconic summer refreshing places in Queens that I have actually never visited and sampled, one of which is Lemon Ice King of Corona.  “OMG,” you say. “Did you just move to Queens? Are you an adult?”  I grew up either having “Italian ices” that were mass produced, in a cup, and eating it with a wooden disposable spoon.  Most important aspect of it was to hold out to get to the sugary formation at the bottom.  I don’t think we even cared that these were artificially flavored ices. If you wanted to “cheat” you could find your way of turning it over in the cup and attacking it. 

 

Now, I recently discovered what true Italian ices should be including real fruit and a bit of a “creamier” consistency due to it being churned.  I decided to undertake a test on whether I believed Lemon Ice King to be the best and standard for Italian Ices.

Lemon Ice King sits on the corner of 108^th Street and Corona Avenue. There is no indoor access as it appears more like a store front turned into a “stand.” I had a phone chat with present owners Vincent Barbaccia and Michael Zampano who purchased the enterprise from Peter Benfaremo, the son of Nicola Benfaremo. Nicola began the venture in 1944 from his garage as a street vendor with a pushcart of two flavors; pineapple and lemon, both incorporating real fruit.  Michael’s first job was working here behind the counter and later moving up to production.  With Peter’s return from serving in WWII the family expanded the success to it being the storefront offering more flavors.  Both Vincent and Michael grew up in this area and with the company’s great reputation thought it best to continue creating and serving this Sicilian delight. Now, there are 50 flavors. 

Okay, I didn’t try all of the flavors….I managed about a dozen and over a period of time. What makes these ices “King” is their using real piece of fruit. 

Let’s begin with the most famous lemon.  I actually had to spit out a flattened pit.  Freshly squeezed lemon juice mixed with just the right amount of sugar produced the best palate quencher going.  I’ll continue with the fruit:  orange, watermelon, tangerine, strawberry, cherry, mango and raspberry.  I wound up using these as an excuse for having my daily fruit.  

Next were the more interesting flavors of: licorice that tasted like anise along with tiny black licorice pieces in it; mint chocolate chip, of which was so good that I didn’t miss this in the form of ice cream; chocolate – passed the test of my being a chocoholic; and peanut butter, one of the most popular, has both peanuts and peanut butter chips in it. 

Expect long lines here. If you don’t want to slurp it from one of those paper cups that you squeeze and suck out every last morsel and taste, Lemon Ice King sells the flavors in pint containers…no mixing! Want to sit and slurp? The William F. Moore Park aka Spaghetti Park is just across the way for you to grab a bench. Make sure you bring napkins.   Got any questions? 718.699.5133.

I'm following up with more flavors that I tried. Pineapple - having bits of pineapple pieces, blueberry- has those small wild blueberries in it, banana - I'm guessing it's a banana puree, peach - bits of peach in it, grape - tastes like the flavor of concord grape juice, lime - great in itself but have used a tablespoon in cooking, apple - it won't keep the doctor away but definite apples in it.  Favorite of these was the pineapple....figures since they first stared out with lemon and pineapple ices. 

  Since first posting I have tried many other flavors: spumoni - pistachio, vanilla and chocolate...what a great combination; root beer - pretty good; pina colada -can taste the coconut with real flakes in it and the pineapple; strawberry banana - another great combo; O/V swirl is a combo of orange and vanilla, like having a creamsicle;

Take a Tour of Italy at Mama’s

What may appear to be a small deli on the corner of 104th Street and 46^th Avenue in Corona, is just the beginning of a set of stores that will give you access to a replica of an Italian Piazza.  The history goes back to Irene and Frank Leo, who came over from the Italian city of Bari, opening Loe’s Latticini back in the 1930s at a different location.  

Their daughter, Nancy De Benedittis and her husband Frank De Benedittis, took it over and brought the business to Corona.  Nancy, known as "Mama", was the matriarch of the family and the person that expanded the deli to include the Southern Italian recipes of hot foods.

The above is a sandwich made with her delicious pork roast.   
In 2011 after Nancy passed, the corner street was named after her, with the deli acquiring the name of Mama’s of Corona. Her three daughters, Irene and Maria DeBenedittis and Carmela Lamorgese took over what is now a complex, one part of which is the deli. Abutting was a store devoted to the making of fresh pasta, which after several years was closed to the public.

  

Fresh pasta is no longer made at this storefront as it is now leased to a florist.  It could not be a better choice having some tables and plants sitting just outside near the deli. As for the pasta, you can be certain that it doesn’t come out of box….still made the old fashioned way.  

More than 50 years ago Mama came up with a sandwich the now famous Special Italian Hero, which is also sold at Citi Field.  In fact, USA Today conducted a contest of fans voting for their favorite food at all ballparks in the country. Mama’s came in at 4^th place In case you haven’t tried this long standing hero, it consists of: pepper ham, salami, store-made mozzarella, marinated mushrooms and sweet peppers.  

Mama’s offers both sandwiches and hot foods on the daily lunch specials to include sliced pork roast with gravy.  “Our roast pork and roast beef are made from scratch. There is always a daily pasta dish available.”  Twist my arm, I just had to sample the roast pork and roast beef.  OMG! Perfectly seasoned with nothing overpowering and both quite juicy and tender.  Can it get any better?  Oh yes….the gravy!   

You will also see the Italian deli meats hanging in such a tempting way and are welcome to explore the shelves for the many Italian imported products in jars, cans and packages.   

  

Breads are baked in their bakery, the third part of the group. There is no seating in the deli.  Take the food “to go” or bring it to the bakery known as Mama’s Backyard Café, where you can casually sit at a table along the side or the one large table in a room towards the back. 

Feast your eyes on the Italian pastries such as sfogliatelles, cannolis, Italian cheesecake, lobster tails, rainbow cookies, biscotti, and rhum baba, resting in the extended glass cases.  Enjoy a cappuccino.  Take home some of the breads like ciabatta, great for making a quick pizza.  They sell their store made sauces as well.  My taste buds were having a huge party celebration with the pastries.  Bet you can’t eat just one….sorry…maybe you can resist…At least I waited until I go them home.  

You will feel as if you are in Italy as you enter the backyard, a replica of an Italian piazza complete with a water fountain, white wrought iron furniture, herb wall garden and a mural that includes a statue of St. Francis.  “We renovated the garden with new furniture and a wood slatted covering under the mural,” said Irene.  “It separates the abutting back apartment building and seems cozier and changing from the black wrought iron to the white certainly makes the garden brighter.”  

Having the deli closed on Sundays and Monday’s it is quite common to see the community gather in the backyard especially on Sunday after people attending mass at a nearby church.  Deli sandwiches are available at the bakery these two days to accommodate the steady customers.  

With the recent passing of Maria, Irene and Carmela continue to run the operation.  As Irene continues to do most of the work, (She did all of the recent Halloween decorations.) she always has Maria in mind and the way she would want the women owned and run enterprise to be represented to the community and beyond.   May this landmark Italian enterprise go on for many more years.  

LITTLE ITALY ON A CORNER OF CORONA

"Mama's Special" is a cold sandwich of prosciuttini (different from prosciutto), salami, and mozzarella with marinated mushrooms and sweet red peppers.  It is the most requested Italian deli sandwich at a place called Leo's Latticini or "Mama's of Corona" located on the corner of 104th Street and 46th Avenue in a section of Queens known as Corona.  What makes it so special is that the bread is baked in their bakery down the block, and roasted red peppers and mozzarella is freshly made in the kitchen.

The story goes back to Irene and Frank Leo, who came over from the Italian city of Bari, opening a deli back in the 1930s at a different location.  Their daughter, Nancy De Benedittis and her husband Frank De Benedittis, took it over and brought the business to Corona.  Nancy, known as "Mama", was the matriarch of the family and the person that expanded the deli to include the Southern Italian recipes of hot foods.

Walk in on a Friday with choices of: Eggplant Parmigiano, filet of scrod or flounder; Fritatta (omelet); and Linguini with Seafood Sauce...you can always get roasted turkey with gravy made daily.  I decided on both the linguini and the eggplant parm.  Good choice!  They happened to have made a white sauce with the seafood being of clams, sea scallops and shrimp.  I would personally match this dish to eating in a fine dining Italian restaurant that Zagat gave a 30 to. What made the linguini extra special is that this wonderful place makes their own pasta in a store that abuts the deli.  Macaroni salad never tasted this good!

Oh, there is much more to the deli than the counter with the above hanging dry meats as well as some imported cheeses.  Shelves of imported Italian staples...they are also stocking up on the real Nutella! 

Let's get the whole family into this with her daughters Carmela Lamorgese (pasta maker), Irene Bend and Marie Bend along with a baker and staff.  Certainly need them all.  You see, there is no place to sit in the deli.  So where do the customers go?  Abutting the pasta venue is Mama's Backyard Cafe and bakery. 

The counters in the bakery extend with several glass cases of some delicious looking goodies.

Okay, twist my arm...I had to taste some pastries.  Sfogliatelle had a great outer crunch on the shell and creamy cheesy inside stuff.  I was surprised to see that cannolis were already stuffed but the shell on the chocolate one really held up without any sogginess (I waited until I got home to indulge), and judging from the customers at the counter, they go pretty fast!  Loved, loved the cannoli cream...which also sat atop the rhum baba...just tasted the top...haven't bitten into that one as yet.  One pastry similar to a macaron...meringue with almond paste. Delish!  Napoleons and more.  Coconut macaroon that is quite moist and with a bit of chocolate dipping.

Did I mention the Italian cheesecake and cupcakes?  

Definite long list of breads that include a prosciutto bread and these small round pizza looking ones with its own spices.  Great for placing some of the fresh mozzarella and giving it a quick visit to the broiler. If you are not up for a sweet dessert, there is always the taralli, a breadstick textured bite sized snack that is baked with fennel or black pepper. 

There are tables and chairs as well as a small food menu and tasty Italian coffee.  Cappuccino anyone?

Another room past it has a long table with chairs and seems to be used by the firefighters and police officers who are taking their lunch break.

So, why is it called Mama's Backyard Cafe?  Go out the back door to view an outdoor garden complete with wrought iron furniture, a statue of St. Francis, fountain, picturesque mural and a wall herb garden.  Hey, what's an Italian cafe without fresh basil and such?  Someone obviously wanted to duplicate an Italian piazza.

With a picture being worth a thousand words, you will find millions on the outside of one of the stores depicting the history of both the family and those who stopped in for a loving day of food and conversation, which now may turn to baseball.  The New York Mets.  Mama's has a few stands at Citi Field selling those scrumptious sandwiches.  When do they find the time to sleep? LET'S GO MAMA'S!

Phone number for the bakery is 718-565-9104...Mama's of Corona deli is 718-898-6069