GIVING TANKS TO LOBSTERS

Thanksgiving bringing visions of a turkey dinner with all of the fixings needs to be replaced by history as it really happened.  With the Mayflower floating at sea, the Pilgrims first landed in Provincetown, Massachusetts where the Native Americans introduced them to lobster.  Yes, it was the year 1620 as they spent five weeks drafting up one of the most famous documents in American history, the Mayflower Compact…In fact, you know you have approached P’Town when you see the Pilgrim Monument, the tallest all-granite structure in the US….That first Thanksgiving brought New England seafood where lobsters were considered the “turkey.” 

 

Once known as the “cockroach of the sea,” lobsters have become a mouth-watering delicacy especially to Susan Povich and her husband Ralph Gorham.   Susan’s family originally lived in Maine where the best lobster seems to be found.   While vacationing there Susan got a hankering for lobster.  She and Ralph first decided to share their food craving with friends by bringing back 20 pounds of it for a lobster dinner.   They came to the conclusion that a business investment would work even better with a move to Red Hook, Brooklyn.  Thus the Red Hook Lobster Pound begat selling lobsters maintained in tanks. 

With Red Hook going through a period of gentrification Susan and Ralph wanted to keep up with this new artsy area by turning his business into a restaurant.  Nothing fancy.  Ralph describes it as being a “shanty shack like you would see at the end of a wharf in Maine.”  I loved it!  Just a few blocks from the NYC ferry landing.  

What would then be the best way to serve lobster without having to cook them or even pick it apart?  Lobster rolls, another New England craze. “Maine Lobster”, one of the rolls, is tossed with a touch of homemade mayo piled on to a buttery split-top bun and topped with paprika and scallions. Susan has experimented with creating the perfect mayo that would enhance the lobster without overwhelming the flavor.   

Does the lobster meat come from the lobsters from their tank?   Are you kidding?  With the amount of lobster rolls sold here Ralph gets the meat from a company in Maine where they have machines that do the work.  It’s the knuckles and claws that have the sweetest and most tender meat.  Sometimes it can come from the legs as well.  Next time you get a whole lobster, use a rolling pin to push it out.  You may be surprised with the quantity.   Did I tell you that it comes with slaw, pickle and your choice of fries, potato salad or green salad?

Would you like the “Thanksgiving experience?”  Have a lobster dinner, especially on a Wednesday when the price is $25.  You get a Swimming-in-the-tank-fresh 1 1/2 LB Maine Lobster, boiled red new potatoes, corn and restaurant made cole slaw.  Bib and equipment provided. 

There are a few other items that you must indulge in.  One of them is soup.  If you are with someone, get two cups of two different “chowdahs.”   Down East consists of lobster, clams, haddock and mussels in a creamy tomato broth.  The other is a creamy old fashioned clam chowder. 

I have had fried pickles before.  Restaurants usually serve them in slices cross wise or length wise.  Ralph tells me that they dice them up, place them in a Brooklyn brine beer batter to fry and serve with a chipotle aioli.  There is always a next time for me.  

I’m not much for brussels sprouts.  I could now understand why it has become one of their best sellers.  Fry them in a caramelized lobster broth and make sure that they don’t come out raw or overdone.  Wow!  

You can’t imagine that the most popular sandwich is a Hook Burger.  That’s another one of Susan’s ideas and it won awards.  Dry aged prime custom blend. Burger itself is topped with lettuce, tomato, special sauce and American cheese. Add bacon...$1.50. Like all of the sandwiches, it comes with slaw, Brooklyn brine pickle and your choice of Fries, Potato Salad or Green Salad. Sweet potato fries extra $1.00.  This burger has been rated one of the top 25 in New York City.  

I had to save room for dessert (s).  Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies is a local thing.  They come in tarts and use real key limes and egg yolks.  Although pies can be made with regular limes, these small key limes have a special flavor of their own.  It is topped with fresh whipped cream.  Since the Banana Mousse Pudding is made on the premises I needed to sample that as well.  OMG.  Whipped pudding with ‘nilla wafers topped with whipped cream. 

Here is the info low down.   Open Tuesday-Thursday: 11:30am-10pm Friday-Saturday: 11:30am-11pm / Sunday: 11:30am-10pm.  Phone number: 718-858-7650 

Red Hook Lobster Pound has some other locations, although none are full restaurants.  Their Montauk location is a basic shack with food to go and benches outside.  Another location is a main booth that is part of UrbanSpace Vanderbilt at 45^th St. in Manhattan.  Needless to say there are trucks, one of which you will find in Rockaway along the beach calling it Rockaway Clam Bar.  Cater your party by having a truck come to your home!  Happy Tanksgiving!

COOKING FOR MOM ON HER DAY

Mothers Day connotes gifts, one of which is spoiler her by making dinner.  The problem is that you are used to mom being the cook.  One great idea is to buy food with the preparations already taken care of so all you have to do is cook.  Take, for instance Cross Bay Seashell Fish Market, located in Howard Beach where you can opt for whole or fileted fish or get some with the proper seasonings to minus the recipe. 

Vincent Marinello is the co-owner of Cross Bay Seashell Fish Market, located at 161-14 Cross bay Blvd. in Howard Beach.  “My family comes from a small fishing village in Sicily called Sciacca,” said Vinny. “As a teen my dad (Luigi) would work on a fishing boat along with his brothers. He would be out at sea for days and at times for weeks.”

Upon arriving in New York along with my mother, my dad started working for a gentleman by the name of Ray Hart, who owned Crossbay Seashell at the time. This was in 1974. My dad worked for Ray Hart until 1982. Then in 1982 Mr. Hart sold Crossbay Seashell to my dad and to my uncle (Salvatore Catanzaro).  My uncle retired around 10 years ago, and he sold his share of the business to Pat Marotta, who is currently my partner.

My dad retired 4 years ago, and I took over his ownership. As for me I never envisioned myself owning the business. I went to college, got my degree, and worked in the Import/Export field as a sales associate for around 6 years. When my uncle retired I went back to give my dad a hand, and haven¹t left since.”

On the top of the list of “preparations” is a Maine lobster, already steamed or stuffed with shrimp and scallops (and bread crumbs) to bake it on your own.   It is so worth ripping apart and getting every little morsel.  Keep in mind that if you purchase lobster tails (anywhere) they are frozen and cooked   There is nothing like having fresh lobster.   As for the “gift” portion, how about your taking it apart and less work for her.  It doesn’t just mean the two claws and tail.  Meat is hidden in the tiny claws and inside the body.   I found that the lobster did not require added butter.  I don’t know where that tradition began since the lobster itself should be juicy and sweet.   Save the calories for some dessert, instead. 

Stuffed flounder is a good choice for non-shell fish as well as being “mild” in taste.  Vinny or Pat will stuff it with lump crabmeat, shrimp, cream of mushroom soup and bread crumbs.  Now, that sounds delicious.  How did it taste?  As if it were served at a fine dining restaurant (I followed the baking instructions that Pat gave me).  

You can get two types of crab cakes.  Vinny tells me that some people actually prefer them with the imitation crab meat and are much less expensive.   I prefer the real Maryland style that they stuff with lots of lump crab meat, some bread crumbs and those Maryland spices.   Fish cakes are another option using cod instead of crab.  Easy tartar sauce combines mayonnaise and relish.  For a spicier one use one with mustard or just add a bit of mustard to the other two ingredients.  

Baked clams oreganata uses the fresh clams with olive oil and seasoned breadcrumbs as is an excellent appetizer.  It’s not as if mom will be eating all of this!  

A Shrimp Cocktail presentation will wow mom.  Pat tells me that the shrimp are wild and come from South America.  Buy them raw and steam in beer…that’s right.  It gives a bit of sweetness and removes a bit of the fishy flavor.   You can get cocktail sauce or make your own.  It’s now difficult.   A combination of ketchup and horse radish does the trick and gives mom the option of adding more horse radish if it further tempts the palate.   Line a martini glass and place the cocktail sauce in the middle.   If you really don’t want to cook it, Vinny or Pat will steam it for you.  Important to note that the shrimp has been frozen and thawed out.  You cannot refreeze but you can cook it up and freeze.  

If you don’t want to make your own cocktail or tartar sauce, you can purchase that at the market.  However, if you want lemons or limes you have to go next door to the grocer. While you’re there, I highly suggest that you pick up a can of crabmeat.  Get the one that comes from the claw. It has both excellent quality and taste (I tried it and loved it!).  Use some of it with the shrimp cocktail, add it to a salad with avocado and lime juice, concoct a crab quiche, add it to macaroni and cheese or grilled cheese sandwich.  Keep in mind that the can of crabmeat is fresh and requires refrigeration. When you open the can, it stays fresh for 3-4 days.   Best thing is to take out portions of the meat, place in containers and freeze. 

I suggest that you call ahead of time…like maybe a day or two before to make sure that all of the items are available when you get there.  Phone: (718) 835-2987.  Small parking lot on the premises. 

YOU’RE ALWAYS A WINNER IN NICK’S “SHELL GAME”

Take stock in having a mouthwatering seafood experience at Nick’s Lobster House both a restaurant and market.   Having been in the family since 1955, they say “Our goal is to provide our guests with excellent service in a fun, casual atmosphere to enjoy the freshest lobsters, seafood and ingredients around.”  Their aim is to “continuously improve Nicks Lobster House for another 60 years.” Perhaps that is why they recently hired Donald Baftjari as the new General Manager with a strong history of restaurant command.  

I find that aside from that awful Red Lobster chain you cannot find many local restaurants that are devoted to seafood without being ethnic.  Personally, if I cannot view a tank of lobsters of this ilk I don’t count on the freshness.  Here you can expect hard shell lobsters vs the soft shell “summers” that are in the supermarkets.  Hard shells have more meat. 

Since it appeared that the waitstaff had a good knowledge of the menu with detailed preparation, I asked lots of questions, some of which they did have to request from Chef Miguel Luna.  In particular were the three soups.  Here is what I was told about the seafood stock.  It is housemade with garlic, onion, celery, carrot, clam juice and a whole lobster.  Manhattan Clam Chowder adds potato, celery, carrot, onion, fresh tomato and bell pepper.  New England Clam Chowder uses the stock with potato, clam juice, flour, milk, butter, garlic and onions.   Opt for the Lobster Bisque and you’ll get milk, heavy cream, tomato puree, sherry wine, wheat flour, shallots, butter, and of course, lobster.  I got a sample of all three, equally good with a different savory taste.  

Onto the raw bar for Blue Point oysters and little neck clams.  Rather than a shrimp cocktail I requested the steamed shrimp on this platter.  They get the shrimp delivered fresh, not frozen. 

Let’s get to the ambiance.  Very casual.  As with popular restaurants they may tend to have a line of customers waiting to be seated.  Upon entry, you will find four 4-top and two 2-top tables in their lounge area.  A bar is being tended for your refreshment enjoyment (wine and beer only) and you can choose to even sit at the bar and dine.   The market area is in this room and will give you a chance to check out some of the goods. “At our Fish Market customers can purchase Shrimp, homemade Crab Cake, Salmon, Sword Fish and Fillet of Sole,” Donald later told me. “Also available fresh daily are Little Neck Clams, Oysters, Mussels, Steamers and Lobster of different sizes from 1 1/4 lb up to 6 lb.”  

Two great “to go items”….lobster roll and lobster meat sandwich.  The Lobster roll is served cold with hot French fries.  The lobster meat sandwich has it topped with seafood stuffing and baked (also comes with fries). 

Nick’s has a few rooms to both whet and satisfy your appetite.  One side of the dining area faces the waterway.  That’s where the view comes in with a few occasional seagulls viewing you or perhaps Manager Kenneth Pearth as he walks from table to table.   He’s such a nice guy.  

Back to the food.  Since I’m in a lobster house, I certainly desire to have one simply steamed.  Not wanting to pass up on the crab, I requested both Alaskan King and Snow.  You can rarely get that fresh as they are delivered frozen and cooked.  Have you ever notices that only the legs are available with just a touch of body?  This is due to both the size and there not being meat in the body. 

Nick’s may be billed as a Lobster House but don’t think that you cannot get some fresh fish filets.  Take the Broiled Seafood Platter, for instance.  Good size chunk of salmon, sea scallops and stuffed filet of sole.  “The seafood stuffing is prepared daily,” Donald told me, “and consists of bay scallops, shrimp, crab meat, japanese breadcrumbs, garlic, onion, butter, white wine.” It has become so popular that you can buy it “to go” or just get a side of it with your meal. 

I just had to sample a dessert, which I don’t believe is made on the premises.  Hey, it’s casual dining…they have enough to prepare as it is.  I chose the Tiramisu and was totally surprised to find it being better than some Italian restaurants that I have dined at.  Can’t believe I ate the whole thing.  Okay, I was not alone.  My friends Mildred and Ethel Louise shared the dinner with me.

“Nick’s Lobster House started as a fish market and gradually it grew into a restaurant,” Donald uttered.  “It is our job to hire, train, motivate and lead other people to give our customers an exceptional service, a fresh product from our local vendors and create a warm, friendly environment where everyone feels like being at home. Your customer doesn't care how much you know, until they know how much you care.”

The restaurant  is open every day with an all-day menu. Tuesday is a 2 for 1 Lobster Special.  Wednesday is “50% off of the raw bar”.  Reservations are accepted (and suggested).  718-253-7117. You can either call or make your reservation on their website of www.nickslobsterhouse.com .