YOU DON’T HAVE TO BE ITALIAN TO OPEN A GELATERIA

One would think that hearing the owners’ names of Maria and Tony a Gelateria would not expect the full names of Maria Chee and Tony Liu.  Maria and Tony partnered up to open Chillato, a strict Gelateria located at 17-16 154 Street in Whitestone.  No, you won’t find ice cream here.

 

How did this scrumptious endeavor come to pass?  Maria and her husband John  Zefi are world travelers, having taken in the Rome area of Italy as well as Spain’s Seville, an area also noted for gelato.   Impressed with the difference between ice cream and gelato, they spoke with several gelato makers about their base line recipes and flavor recipes. Here, in the US, they worked with several gelato manufacturers learning how to produce this elegant dessert. 

Maria said that she and Tony have known each other for several years due to their children going to school together.  They were looking to open a store in the neighborhood that would be more of a family hangout in the community and decided on gelato because, “Who doesn’t love gelato”, said Maria. John, by the way, is also a partner as well as Tony’s wife, Linda. 

Chillato proved to have a colorful and welcoming environment as experienced seeing the faces of the customers, not to mention the glow when they taste it.   Most of the staff was present including Christine Jean, who, due to her career, was being gelato trained in the kitchen.  Up front were Marilyn Carpio and Billy Plantin.   

Let’s get to the basic info.  Gelato, is the Italian word for “ice cream” and there is a big difference between the contents and consistency of ice cream vs. gelato. Two of the main ingredients in both ice cream and gelato are milk and cream. However, it is the amount of each that changes the desserts. As the name implies, "ice cream" contains more cream than milk vs gelato, which is made with a greater proportion of whole milk to cream and in some cases, no cream at all.  Gelato is also free of egg yolks, of which ice cream tends to include.

The ingredients are not the only aspect that separates the two as it is also the way that each is made. Both Ice cream and gelato must be churned to create that creaminess.  The speed is important as it results in the amount of air that is incorporated. Thus gelato is churned at a slower speed creating a denser consistency.  To give you an idea about the ice cream that you purchase gelato may contain about 25 to 30 percent air, while ice cream can have as much as 50 percent air. One thing that is not noticeable is that with ice cream the container’s contents information is not really consistent to the actual weight.  

Tony said that due to the storage of ice cream, it has to be at a lower temperature than gelato and thus needing more sugar. “When it’s much colder you get a quick numbness on your tongue requiring it to have even more flavor.”  John said that the core base product is imported from Italy. “We then add our fresh recipes.  In fact, the gelatos that are displayed have most likely come out of the kitchen only an hour ago and then have to be replenished.”

The base of gelato is called sweet milk, not to be confused with what might appear to be vanilla. Hearing about my favorite dessert, I scooted over there to find that they allow you to taste as many flavors as you want.  I tasted every one of them and put my seal of approval on the authenticity having sampled gelato at several places yet only totally pleased with a few.  

I first met Maria and then Tony, who although we did have time to talk, was mostly in the kitchen creating the various flavors as they were running out as well as training Christine Jean in the art of gelato making.   He later told me that when time is not of the essence, he loved working up front and speaking with the customers.  

Hazelnut, known as Nocciola, is my favorite flavor of which I saved for my last tasting.  Chocolate is my second favorite.  One of my least favorites is coconut.  They had just made a batch and had not placed it out yet.  My first flavor taste had me totally surprised at how much I did enjoy the coconut gelato.  

My tendency on both ice cream and gelato is to choose bare flavors vs. ones such as “s’mores,” “raspberry cheese cake,” “lemon butter cookies and cream,”  “oreo cookies and cream”, and “salted caramel” although I did have an appreciation for the palate of each.    
Tiramisu, Pistachio, and Coffee were some examples of the use of the true ingredients vs flavorings.  Stracciatella is basically chocolate swirled into the sweet milk, the core of gelato.   The chocolate hardens like the coating on an ice cream pop.  

I continued putting off the last one, to taste two chocolates.  One was a milk chocolate gelato that was not overly sweet.  I tend to shy away from milk chocolate for that reason.  However, this had to be the best I have had.  A second one was a deep dark chocolate that was made with water and skim milk powder.  Although I relished its sorbet consistency, the powder gave it the classification of being a gelato. It tasted like having a European version of hot chocolate, which contains much more water than milk.  Kind of like when you put a small amount of milk into coffee. 
 
Next, I meandered to the sorbet area to sample: mango; raspberry lychee; passionfruit; strawberry; and lemon, all of which had the true taste of the fruit and less sweet then I expected, which makes the fruit stand out even more.  Excellent palate cleansers as well.  I found the raspberry lychee to be quite creative in the combination.  

Now it was time for the hazelnut and well worth the waiting.  Maria said that this was the most popular flavor and had to be made often as it quickly ran out.  Beyond this is their signature, “Ferraro Roche,” a hazelnut gelato with chocolate swirled into it (which was not available at this time).   

Chillato also offers these small gelato pops.  Maria said that being a new place (having opened about a month ago) they were experimenting since they create their own recipes.  Pops flavors this day were: lemon cookies and cream, salted caramel, biscotti, chocolate, and sweet milk.  I suggested dipping the coconut gelato in chocolate to call it a “mounds pop.”   

“Rather than mass produce, we are trying to create unique flavor profiles with each gelato that we serve,” said John. “For instance we made a ‘peanut butter and jelly’ and our much requested ‘raspberry cheesecake.’”

Chillato will be one of the featured restaurants at the upcoming Taste of Whitestone, on Thursday May 2.  You should expect two gelatos and one sorbet.  For further information call: (718) 489-1750 or www.chillatoshop.com 

ARTISTRY OF COOKING WHERE PREPARATION AND TASTE TRANSCEND THE CUISINE

“Elvis is finally in the house.”  You could hear those words muttered at the 3^rd Annual Chicken Soup Cookoff, held last year at the Temple Beth Sholom in Flushing. For the past two years prior, Chef Elvis’ spicy Caribbean style chicken soup came in first place from both the judges and People’s Choice awards.  Not so in this one as Elvis had competition from a new entry, Tropical Revival, whose chicken soup seemed even a bit more “peppery”.  Nevertheless, Tropical Revival came in first from both judging groups with Elvis taking second place.  

 

Who would have thought that having a most peppery soup would be such a crowd pleaser.  Late arrival Elvis toted his soup from his restaurant on Long Island, while Tropical Revival owner Albert Teekasingh made an early entrance coming from Whitestone.  I think they were aware of their competitor as along with Elvis’s soup, a tray of mac and cheese was sitting alongside as an addition taster.  Albert had a tray of what for me was the best tasting buttery soft corn bread.  There is fresh corn in the bread and a secret ingredient that makes it so soft and flavorful. 

What was in the chicken soup?  Let’s begin with that Albert only uses cut up dark meat on the bone from fresh killed chickens. Cut up pieces of corn on the cob, yellow split peas, carrots, sweet potatoes, yucca, plantains, are added.  Habanero peppers are the “kick” in the soup and he doesn’t yell the word “bam” when he adds it. 

I was forced (twist my arm) to seek out Albert’s restaurant, located at 12-40 Clintonville Street, in a small shopping center with two floors of stores.  It was easy to spot the boasting award signs and not just due to the Chicken Soup Cookoff  as I arrived at what I believed to be a less busy time. 

Albert and his sister Elizabeth were behind the counter. Most of the food choices were resting each separately on the steam table. Although there is seating for about 12 people, most customers pop in and take out.  The menu changes every day depending upon what Albert (along with Elizabeth) want to prepare. 

I interviewed Albert and sampled much of the food to find that the artistry of preparation and taste that transcended the cuisine to the point of not even taking in account its “ethnicity.”  

It was back in his childhood days in Guyana that Albert learned to cook watching his mother and grandmother involved in the catering business.  That is what got him his start here catering companies such as Home Depot. 

He soon vied for a spot catering school lunches as four-year-olds and other kids were tired of eating bland foods now catering 4 Catholic Schools.  The children only noticed the flavors and enjoyed the spices.  One of the choices is rice with spinach that is “garlicky.” He does cut back on the habanero but tends to use dishes made with a curry.  Another is a lo mein (not of the Asian ilk) with vegetables. The one I sampled also had jumbo shrimp.  

It was now time to secure a restaurant only a few years ago.  Albert begins the food preparation at about 4 am, opening the restaurant at about 11:30 am.  There are no frozen foods used in any of his dishes, not even the most popular and sought out Oxtail (It does not come from an ox, but a cow). In fact it goes so quickly that you have to call ahead of time to see if there is any left. This 4-6 hour dish is simmered and not pressure cooked using onions, garlic, thyme, sweet pepper, cilantro and scallions marinated for hours prior to the cooking. 

 

Here is where I have to “share.”  While tasting and talking a man from Uber Eats came to take photos of the food. Yes, it means that you’ll be able to fill you tummy with goodness using an app.  The man is Chinese born.  I purposely asked because I had gone to a Chinese restaurant that served oxtail and was a bit surprised as I had never seen this on an Asian menu.  I wanted to tell him this but got interrupted. Before the man left, Albert asked if there was anything that he wished to take home and he said, “oxtail.”  I had to laugh. 

Enough chat….let’s get to the food.  I started with his famous soup and although it was still as peppery managed to get past it finding that my throat was not affected but my lips were a bit.  Now I was able to totally understand the “win.” 

Curry dishes are not my favorite due to one particular ingredient – cumin. Don’t enjoy the taste and find that I have a slight allergy as well. I had brought my food buddy, Deveka who was born in Surinam.  Give her a peppery tasting item and she will still request hot sauce to go with it. Not this time though as Albert’s combination of herbs and spices pleased her palate well.  

Curry is not a spice but a mixture of spices. Albert combines: onions, garlic, cumin, and masala.  One of the selections was Crab with Curry using snow crab, coconut milk and a root vegetable known as eddoes, related to the taro family. 

   

Baked Chicken and Curried Chicken were two other items as well as Pumpkin Shrimp using both pumpkin and butternut squash.  I have yet to have Curried Duck of which Albert goes directly to a place where he can pick out a live duck. 

“Sides” are served with the main item, including rice and red beans, rice and pigeon peas, the rice with spinach, roti, dahl and macaroni pie (a form of mac and cheese). 

“Jerk” mains are available in the form of Jerk Chicken and Jerk Pork.  Spicy, but not so peppery. If you happen to be there on a Saturday, Albert might just have made his “fall off the bone” spare ribs.   

This entrepreneur is not stopping at having the catering and restaurant.  There are two more ideas in the making.

Tropical Revival is open from 11:30 am to 7pm, closed on Sunday and Monday. (917) 563-7879

GREAT GELATO AT LA DOLCE VIA

Having come back from Winnipeg remembering that fabulous gelato at Nucci's, I searched the internet for a gelato cafe here in Queens. I was so delighted to find out that a cafe opened less than a year ago in the Whitestone section about a half hour drive from where I live. I first needed to find out whether they use artificial ingredients or a prepackaged mix. I find that when this happens, I get the taste and aftertaste as well as the texture just hitting the mark.

I called and John, the owner, gave me the 101 and saying that the gelato is made "from scratch". One of my friends lives nearby and was coming over to my house. I asked her to pick up two flavors, chocolate and hazelnut. Those are the two on which I judge the gelato. Perfect! I told John that I would soon be making my way there and doing a taste test.

I took a ride to their location at 12-58 150th Street. Before I even met John, I took photos. You'd think you were in Italy with the murals on the walls and garden in the back. The garden even has a few fig trees and an olive tree.

I saw a table of people, took a shot and John said, "You must be Merle". John Greco was with his wife, Maria Louisa, his daughter Sara, and a few members of his family, John and Tina.

I actually tasted all of the 24 flavors in the showcase and those were just the ones he had this day. John's son, Michael, is the one responsible for creating the gelato as well as the flavors. We looked at a loose leaf folder of a lot more such as: Chocolate Bacon; Popcorn; Pancake; and Twizzlers.

The ones I sampled that stood out for me were: Dark Chocolate Orange, which tasted as if I were eating chocolate covered orange peels; Mint Stracciatella, like having the best chocolate mint ice cream; Baklava...and they first make the baklava, which would be an awesome ending to a Mediterranean meal; and yes, the absolute in chocolate and hazelnut.

They certainly have the gelato making down to a science. Real fruit in the flavors that are dairy free. You'd never know that it lacked any milk being so smooth and having a creamy texture. I thought about cranberry to accompany your turkey dinner. Lemon is always great as a palate cleanser. Mixed berries, mango, or just about any or the fruit flavors are an easy substitute for a fruit dessert.

Starbucks has nothing over a coffee drink called affogato. You take two scoops of gelato, throw in a shot of espresso and top it with whipped cream and a bit of chocolate syrup. I simply had a scoop of their heavenly coffee gelato, cafe bianco, with the shot of espresso. Their cafe bianco is one flavor whose color doesn't match the taste as we all expect anything coffee to be a shade of brown.

One of the murals is misleading and has a door. I was about to take a photo when the door opened and a woman walked out. That's when I noticed that it was the door to the restroom!

I'll be back to try some other flavors and see if I can chat with the gelato maker. John and perhaps Michael will be my guests on my radio show this week.