Korean restaurants are well known for an array of
complimentary small dishes called “banchan,” laid out with your entrée. They are said to be impressive showcasing a
quality of care, service and economic stability. According to a bit of research, it is served
in odd numbers as even numbers are considered to be “bad luck.”
The best way to understand banchan is by general
categories of ingredients and preparation. An infinite variety of banchan can
be grouped into the following culinary techniques: namul muchim (lightly seasoned
ingredients, in particular, vegetables, roots, sprouts); jjim (steamed); jorim (braised in seasoned broth
or sauce), bokkeum
(lightly sautéed or stir fried); kimchi and jangajji
(fermentation and pickling).
There is also a variety of jun (thinly pan-fried savory pancakes and
small meat patties) that are associated with larger feasts rather than an
everyday casual meal. Three in particular will always appear, no matter how
great or humble the table setting: kimchi, namul muchim and jorim.
What better way to sample these
dishes and the menu than dining at KumGangSan BBQ located at 138-28 Northern
Blvd, in Flushing. Assist Manager Greg Kang provided some information for me saying that one set of side dishes would
be something like 6-7small dishes of different foods plus a plate of
kimchi. “So, typically one set of that will be served to minimum of 1 to 4
persons.For a group of 12 you will see 3
sets of those.”
“There is basically a large spoonful on a small dish and we
serve different kinds everyday with the exception kimchi, which is like a
staple of the Korean food,” said Kang. The preparation of the side dishes are a
big operation of which they have a separate department specializing in just the
creation of these delights.
KumGanSan is open 24 hours, which is also part of the reason
why they do so and having a crew of 10 that are working around the clock. “The
side dishes we create not only get served at the restaurant but there is also a
big demand for catering for large parties.”
Wanting to sample a good amount of the bill of fare, I dined
with Yeou-Cheng Ma and her husband Michael Dadap, who are the owners of the
Children’s Orchestra Society. Yeou-Cheng’s parents were born in China and then
moved to France prior to her birth. She
is also an accomplished violinist, a pediatrician and the sister of Yo-Yo. Michael,
originally from the Philippines, is the Musical Director and Conductor of the
COS. He has a great collection of
stringed instruments. Okay, they also
have a daughter, Laura, who is both a cellist and actor. Loved her performance
in The Voca People. They had eaten here prior and recommended it to me.
I first must admit that I have not sampled Korean food for
at least 30 years due to the thought of it being too spicy for me. Kimchi is
the kicker made from fermented cabbage and usually with ginger, garlic and/or
chili paste and hot pepper flakes. The chef here actually prepares a second
kimchi that has much less of the red stuff, but still maintains a bit of a kick.
Perfect for me.
Small
dishes came out: Kkadugi (cubed radish kimchi) using
radish instead of cabbage; pickled cucumbers; bean sprouts with scallions (that
seemed to have marinated with garlic); julienned radish; water cress; fish cake
and more. I will have to find out if one can do a “to go” of small dishes.
Appetizers
began to make its way to the table. Sushi
and Sashimi combination. 3 pieces of sushi, 9 pieces of sashimi. Korean Steamed Eggs whisked in salted water
and steamed in a pot with scallions.
There was no lack of flavor. Seafood
Pajun. Crispy rice flour pancake with shrimp (not the tiny ilk) and
scallions. I enjoyed these pancakes more
than the Chinese version made with wheat flour.
Duk Guk - traditional Korean soup with oval shaped rice
cakes. The white oval shape symbolizes a
bright and prosperous new year. The Korean holiday coincides with the Chinese
New Year.
Most popular entrée is the barbecue cooked at your
table. We ordered Kal Bi, thinly cross
cut beef short ribs with bone marinated in a special sauce. It comes with onions, garlic cloves,
mushrooms, and peppers of which you can either eat raw or add to the
cooking. A second sauce is provided
along with lettuce for you to wrap and enjoy.
Yeou-Cheng informed me that the
BBQ would not begin until the sushi was completed. Not a problem.
Bibim means mixing, and bap means rice. This dish, served in a sizzling hot stone bowl, is mixed at the table right before eating. The hot stone bowl gives the bottom layer of rice a nice golden crust, and the rest of the food sizzles while being mixed. Yeou-Cheng said that she loves to scrape out the crust and later use to mix with their meal. I don’t believe she’s the only one that does this.
Tea, made of barley and corn is automatically served in a glass. Dessert is a soy based vanilla flavored yogurt.
The décor of KumGangSan is spacious, decorative and calming. Lots of wood. There is an outdoor area in the back complete with a water falls. I will wait for the “thaw.”
www.kumgangsan.net/flushing.php