ALLORA ALLURES YOUR ITALIAN TASTE BUDS

I heard of a new restaurant that opened at the Bay Terrace Shopping Center called Allora Italian Kitchen and Bar and could not imagine it would be different from any other local Italian eatery.   Why would you expect a Corporate Chef named Steve Koutsoumbaris to run the kitchen of what turned out to warrant a label of “finer dining” of Italian cuisine that you might expect in any city’s Little Italy?

I went there with a few friends.  Luchia Lee is Taiwanese American, her husband Ken Howell is a vegetarian.  Allora looks enormous when you enter.  On the left is a large bar area complete with tables and chairs.  A few lounging chairs and tables sit in front of a fireplace located in the middle.  The main part of the restaurant has a few dining areas, one of which sits near two brick pizza ovens and a room dedicated to wines.  Beyond that is a terrace which I’m told will open for the Spring season.  

We decided to have a drink in front of the fireplace, not just to warm up from the outside weather (It was just an excuse since we parked directly in front of the door).  Here came the first test.  Limoncello.  Would it be imported from Italy where the special sweet lemons are grown?   My friends each had a glass of red Italian wine.  Then the Director of Mixology Daniel Rothberg came over to tell me about some of his latest concoctions.  Galera Sappore has a base of Absolut Elyx Vodka and Violet Liqueur, fresh lemon sour, and a splash of beet juice for color, finished with an aromatic torched rosemary sprig.  That is the one I chose.  Next time it’s Bocce Bell – Stoli, Amaretto Luxardo, fresh orange juice, Peach Bitters, a dash of club soda, and garnished with Brandied Amarena Cherries. 

First up were some appetizers starting with a Burrata, a ball of mozzarella with a creamy ricotta in the middle.  Mozzarella is made on the premises as is their ricotta cheese, which has many uses as Italians love to dollop their dish.  It was served with roasted tomato, pomegranate seeds, and smoked almonds.  There is usually a balsamic glaze which is a no-no for me. 

Ken was treated to a Crostini Trio Crostini Trio:  Eggplant Caponata; Whipped Ricotta, Hazelnut & Honey; Wild Mushroom and Taleggio Cheese.  Veggie heaven then came down in the form of “grilled and roasted”.  We all loved it as we did the Beet Salad with shaved fennel, pistachios and a Pesto Ricotta. 

Now, it’s time to “non-veggie” beginning with Nonna’s  Meatballs made with beef and pork, “Sunday Gravy” (Gravy is somewhat defined as “sauce”)  and whipped Ricotta.  Luchia was quite impressed on how soft and flavorful they were.  

For whatever reason I decided to order the Octopus.  I did expect the “chewiness” that came along with it and was totally shocked at the soft texture!  Steve later came over to explain his cooking preparation (which he bragged about passing on to some top chefs who were as surprised as well).  Hey, he is Greek! 

Pasta and pizza are among the top sellers here and I can certainly understand why.  All of the pastas are made on the premises.  What’s better than having fresh pasta?  I’ll tell you.  There was an item called Gnudi.  What?  Think about having gnocci, those pillowy pastas made from potatoes and flour.  Instead of using potatoes, they use ricotta cheese.  OMG! It is served with Taleggio Cream, Prosciutto, and Shiitake mushrooms (prosciutto served on the side so that Ken could indulge as well). Another pasta:  Pappardelle topped with a Short Rib Ragu and Whipped Ricotta.  Smiles from both myself and Luchia.

One small pizza for all of us to be gratified.  What is a Detroit Style Pizza?   A cross between a Sicilian and Chicago deep dish.  We went for a Grandma with mozzarella, roasted tomato and bread crumbs.  My pizza habit tends to be scrumptious on the first slice and then I want to simply remove the toppings from the second and toss out the crust.  Not this one!  The thick crust is crunchy on the outsides and soft in the middle.  Steve shared how the dough was prepared in order to make it “airy” and adding a bit of cheddar cheese for extra flavor.   

  

I have another test.  Osso Buco made from a veal shank.  The meat was perfectly cooked coming out soft and “falling off the bone”.  Sauce (gravy) was wonderfully savory.   Cooked with roasted root vegetables and Trofie Pasta (thin, short and twisted).  What is the most important part but this dish…the marrow.   I used a knife at first and did not find it necessary to spread on anything.  I then simply took the now bare bone and sucked it out.  All of the savory-ness from the cooking seemed to melt into the marrow. 

  

I realize that we have “pigged out” at this point.  Thanks to being able to take home leftovers, it was not an issue.  We just had to experience some desserts which except for the gelato are another “made on the premises” treat for the eyes and mouth.  

Cannoli Nachos: deconstructed cannoli using Cannoli Crisps, pastry cream made with ricotta cheese, chocolate flakes and chocolate chips.  Apple Napoleon:  using a crispy Phyllo dough, cinnamon apples, a mascarpone cream, (Did you expect ricotta?) and topped with pistachio gelato.  Having a fondness for hazelnut gelato, I requested a dish of that.  Wherever they get the gelato from…it’s totally authentic and doesn’t taste like there is “flavoring” vs the real thing. 

What can you expect in the way of service?  Keep in mind that we were here on a Tuesday evening.  Plates and silverware was cleared and replaced after each course.  We all had gotten up to view the pizza ovens and chef at work.  When we got back to the table, the napkins were refolded with silverware placed atop.  Ken had never seen this and I had to explain that it is not typically done and depends upon what the Corporate or Executive Chef wants to wait staff to do.  I think that it gives a more caring touch to dining out giving a more caring and VIP feeling.   

I was going to order coffee but I told the waiter that I was “on a diet”.  In the meantime, I will go back to speak with both Steve and Daniel to obtain the lunch and bar bite menu along with an interview.  

I went back to check out some of the great cocktails that the Mixologist, Daniel has been concocting as well as the Bar Bites menu.

Since Steve came up with the Bar Bites menu, I took a few photos of him

He is standing in front one of two pizza ovens.

This is where they keep the wines.

This is a hand cranked slicer to make meats such as proscuitti come out very thin. Heat of an electric machine keeps it fresher and cooler.

 

VETRO’S CELLAR IS SOMETHING TO WINE ABOUT

Wine Spectator, said to be the leading authority on wine, recently announced the winners of 2016 Restaurant Awards with Howard Beach’s Vetro Restaurant getting another “the Best of Award of Excellence” (two wine glasses).

 

These awards recognize restaurants whose wine lists offer interesting selections, appeal to a wide range of wine lovers, as well as being appropriate to their cuisine.  According to Wine Spectator, “To qualify for an award, a wine list must present complete, accurate information, including vintages and appellations for all selections. Complete producer names and correct spellings are mandatory, and the overall presentation of the list is also considered.” There are three awards:  Award of Excellence; Best of Award of Excellence and Grand Award.   

 

PJ Connelly is both the General Manager and sommelier of this multi-award winning Italian Restaurant that warrants their gold stars just for the décor.   Located at 164-49 Cross Bay Blvd., Vetro sits along the canal.  The main floor has both indoor and outdoor seating as well as a lounge with a bar. In fact, this is where their Wine Emotion Dispensing System is located.  It keeps the wine fresh and temperature controlled after opening.

If the wine menu doesn’t impress you, take a look at the wine cellar room.   One long wall houses the red wines as most of the wine offerings tend to be red or rose, a preference of customers.  That doesn’t take away from another wall of white wines.  Private parties and events are held in this room for the atmosphere alone. 

PJ launched me through a wine tasting.  First let me say that I am not much of a wine drinker, although I have done many wine tastings both in restaurants and at wineries including some in Italy and South Africa.  I prefer to use a spittoon when I am sampling several wines.  This is much different than ordering a “flight of wines”.  Secondly, I tend to steer away from reds as I have a sensitivity towards the tannins. 

We began with a Veneto region Prosecco di Treviso Brut by Villa Jolanda. This light sparkling wine is meant to be drank young and fresh with less acidity than a champagne.  

For those who have not experienced a wine tasting here are the steps.  Wine must never be poured as a full glass as it is best to have room for air.  Hold the glass from the top of the stem so that the heat from your hand does not interfere.  Look at the wine to view the clarity.  Swish the wine to not only allow more oxygen but view how it falls along the glass.  This helps to get a sense of the weight of the particular wine. Tip the glass to your nose and yes, you can put your nose into the glass.   Take a deep breath to determine what is called “the nose” or “aroma”.  Do you get floral, citrus, fruity, earthly?  Now sip less than a mouthful and swish it as if you were swishing mouth wash.  If you are doing the spittoon scene, you will still get enough wine to go to the back of the tongue and in the throat.   When a waiter presents wine for tasting, do the same with a mouthful and simply swallow. 

In this tasting we are going from the Iightest to the fullest.  I was curious as to whether having a Sauvignon Blanc from Italy (Friuli) would taste any different from one coming from New Zealand.  They each had both a different nose and taste, one being more fruity.  

PJ said Italian wines beg to have food.   Twist my arm, I was able to sample two homemade Pastas of the Month eating small amounts after each wine tasting.  Gnocchi with Veal and Chicken Ragu made with potato, flour, eggs and extra virgin olive oil plus onions, garlic, fresh herbs, white wine and tomato. 

The second was Spinach Gnudi made with ricotta, fresh spinach, eggs, grated aged Parmesan cheese and flour plus shallots, butter, wild mushrooms cream and truffle oil. 

Back to the wines with La Segreta by La Planeta made using Grecanico grapes from Siciily.  This showed how the weights differed lasting longer on the palate.  A floral Sicilian wine that is “mineral” and “earthy”.   PJ now reveals the secret of wine and food having a balance of fat and acidity.   

We are now going to a rose.  Red grape, with a nose of a red wine, young and fresh with just a kiss of tannins as the skins are removed from the juice.   Some rose wines can be a light pink or even close to red.  I had sampled Rosato by Olianas from Sardegna.  

So far, the wine was not going to my head nor having what I term an alcohol burn in the back of my throat.  That’s good.  Let’s see how I do with the red wines beginning with Barbera d’Asti Le Orme by Michele Chiarlo from Piemonte in Northern Italy.  PJ says that the grapes from here are the lightest, having a cool climate, refreshing and easy to drink.  Notes of cherry and plum.

When it comes to the area of Veneto, there are grapes that you can’t find anywhere else.  Valpolicella made by Allegrini is the perfect pairing with a Margherita pizza.  They pour the wines over the wine skins.  The same grapes are used for Amaroni.  This one has the sweetness of cherry with some acidity.   Out came the very thin crust pizza with tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella.  Wonderful combination.  

Onto the next from Toscana, Monna Nera Sangiovese I.G.T.  by Cappezzana a blended and earthly wine.   Another wine, also from the same region, Lucente by Luce della Vite  is from the same grape.  Spectacular floral with a rich nose.  The fruit is more concentrated, tannins dry but balanced.  I am told that grape growing depends on the soil and proximity to the sun. 

I was here the evening before with friends Andra and Crystal both into wines. Andra quite a connoisseur had chosen Amicone “Baby Amarone” for it being full bodied and flavorful.   I had to end the tasting with this one from Northern Italy.  They process the dry grapes making them sweeter almost raisin-like.   I could see the weight coating on the glass when swished.   I did not use the spittoon for this one!

When I do have a glass of wine, I usually enjoy it before a meal or without food.  I can see how it does pair with an edible.   Not all wines have to be from Italy to enjoy the bill of fare at Vetro.   A Cabernet Sauvignon from California would go best with a rib eye with gorgonzola cheese and fingerling potatoes. 

In conclusion I was surprised to have found that none of wines, especially the reds, were not too dry for my palate.   This was by far the best wine tasting I’ve ever experienced and have to credit it to PJ’s knowledge.   He tells me that although Vetro does provide flights of wine, he is looking to have wine tasting events.