VETRO’S CELLAR IS SOMETHING TO WINE ABOUT

Wine Spectator, said to be the leading authority on wine, recently announced the winners of 2016 Restaurant Awards with Howard Beach’s Vetro Restaurant getting another “the Best of Award of Excellence” (two wine glasses).

 

These awards recognize restaurants whose wine lists offer interesting selections, appeal to a wide range of wine lovers, as well as being appropriate to their cuisine.  According to Wine Spectator, “To qualify for an award, a wine list must present complete, accurate information, including vintages and appellations for all selections. Complete producer names and correct spellings are mandatory, and the overall presentation of the list is also considered.” There are three awards:  Award of Excellence; Best of Award of Excellence and Grand Award.   

 

PJ Connelly is both the General Manager and sommelier of this multi-award winning Italian Restaurant that warrants their gold stars just for the décor.   Located at 164-49 Cross Bay Blvd., Vetro sits along the canal.  The main floor has both indoor and outdoor seating as well as a lounge with a bar. In fact, this is where their Wine Emotion Dispensing System is located.  It keeps the wine fresh and temperature controlled after opening.

If the wine menu doesn’t impress you, take a look at the wine cellar room.   One long wall houses the red wines as most of the wine offerings tend to be red or rose, a preference of customers.  That doesn’t take away from another wall of white wines.  Private parties and events are held in this room for the atmosphere alone. 

PJ launched me through a wine tasting.  First let me say that I am not much of a wine drinker, although I have done many wine tastings both in restaurants and at wineries including some in Italy and South Africa.  I prefer to use a spittoon when I am sampling several wines.  This is much different than ordering a “flight of wines”.  Secondly, I tend to steer away from reds as I have a sensitivity towards the tannins. 

We began with a Veneto region Prosecco di Treviso Brut by Villa Jolanda. This light sparkling wine is meant to be drank young and fresh with less acidity than a champagne.  

For those who have not experienced a wine tasting here are the steps.  Wine must never be poured as a full glass as it is best to have room for air.  Hold the glass from the top of the stem so that the heat from your hand does not interfere.  Look at the wine to view the clarity.  Swish the wine to not only allow more oxygen but view how it falls along the glass.  This helps to get a sense of the weight of the particular wine. Tip the glass to your nose and yes, you can put your nose into the glass.   Take a deep breath to determine what is called “the nose” or “aroma”.  Do you get floral, citrus, fruity, earthly?  Now sip less than a mouthful and swish it as if you were swishing mouth wash.  If you are doing the spittoon scene, you will still get enough wine to go to the back of the tongue and in the throat.   When a waiter presents wine for tasting, do the same with a mouthful and simply swallow. 

In this tasting we are going from the Iightest to the fullest.  I was curious as to whether having a Sauvignon Blanc from Italy (Friuli) would taste any different from one coming from New Zealand.  They each had both a different nose and taste, one being more fruity.  

PJ said Italian wines beg to have food.   Twist my arm, I was able to sample two homemade Pastas of the Month eating small amounts after each wine tasting.  Gnocchi with Veal and Chicken Ragu made with potato, flour, eggs and extra virgin olive oil plus onions, garlic, fresh herbs, white wine and tomato. 

The second was Spinach Gnudi made with ricotta, fresh spinach, eggs, grated aged Parmesan cheese and flour plus shallots, butter, wild mushrooms cream and truffle oil. 

Back to the wines with La Segreta by La Planeta made using Grecanico grapes from Siciily.  This showed how the weights differed lasting longer on the palate.  A floral Sicilian wine that is “mineral” and “earthy”.   PJ now reveals the secret of wine and food having a balance of fat and acidity.   

We are now going to a rose.  Red grape, with a nose of a red wine, young and fresh with just a kiss of tannins as the skins are removed from the juice.   Some rose wines can be a light pink or even close to red.  I had sampled Rosato by Olianas from Sardegna.  

So far, the wine was not going to my head nor having what I term an alcohol burn in the back of my throat.  That’s good.  Let’s see how I do with the red wines beginning with Barbera d’Asti Le Orme by Michele Chiarlo from Piemonte in Northern Italy.  PJ says that the grapes from here are the lightest, having a cool climate, refreshing and easy to drink.  Notes of cherry and plum.

When it comes to the area of Veneto, there are grapes that you can’t find anywhere else.  Valpolicella made by Allegrini is the perfect pairing with a Margherita pizza.  They pour the wines over the wine skins.  The same grapes are used for Amaroni.  This one has the sweetness of cherry with some acidity.   Out came the very thin crust pizza with tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella.  Wonderful combination.  

Onto the next from Toscana, Monna Nera Sangiovese I.G.T.  by Cappezzana a blended and earthly wine.   Another wine, also from the same region, Lucente by Luce della Vite  is from the same grape.  Spectacular floral with a rich nose.  The fruit is more concentrated, tannins dry but balanced.  I am told that grape growing depends on the soil and proximity to the sun. 

I was here the evening before with friends Andra and Crystal both into wines. Andra quite a connoisseur had chosen Amicone “Baby Amarone” for it being full bodied and flavorful.   I had to end the tasting with this one from Northern Italy.  They process the dry grapes making them sweeter almost raisin-like.   I could see the weight coating on the glass when swished.   I did not use the spittoon for this one!

When I do have a glass of wine, I usually enjoy it before a meal or without food.  I can see how it does pair with an edible.   Not all wines have to be from Italy to enjoy the bill of fare at Vetro.   A Cabernet Sauvignon from California would go best with a rib eye with gorgonzola cheese and fingerling potatoes. 

In conclusion I was surprised to have found that none of wines, especially the reds, were not too dry for my palate.   This was by far the best wine tasting I’ve ever experienced and have to credit it to PJ’s knowledge.   He tells me that although Vetro does provide flights of wine, he is looking to have wine tasting events.  

TO HELL WITH RAMSEY

Chef Vincent "Vinny" Accardi, Jr. went far in Season 8 of Gordon Ramsey's Hell's Kitchen.  Although he did not win the title and restaurant, it did not stop him from sharing his cooking talents in his recently opened restaurant called Room 55 in Glendale, Queens.   Vinny graduated from the CIA May 5 of 2000...or rather 5/5...get it?

May I add that Hell's Kitchen 2015 Calendar boasts him for the month of August with his created recipe of Swiss Chard and Bacon Ravioli, which is not on the menu. 

Room 55 is on a much traveled road, if you are driving which really puts the restaurant in the category of "best kept secret".   Wait until the word gets out about his cooking.  I would call it "American Cuisine with tons of flavor along with a helluva lot of love."    

The restaurant is not large or "decorative".  Mahogany tables and soft chairs.  That is really all you need to enjoy your meal.  Expect "Fine Dining".  Don't expect to have a hamburger.  Vinny
prides himself on using “local” ingredients, which is defined as being within 300 miles.  That entails upstate New York, Long Island, New Jersey and Pennsylvania. 

If you are a female and happen to be there on a Thursday evening, the first glass of sangria is complimentary.  Red wines do not appeal to me, thus I chose the white wine with fruit that included white peaches.  Add a bit of peach liquor and you have one delicious concoction. 

I had the opportunity to do a chef's sampling, keeping in mind that the portion size viewed is not necessarily a full portion. I mean...how much can one person eat during one meal!

Not all Clams Casino have the exact same recipe.  Chef Vnny's casino style little neck clams are served in a broth. They are steamed open with fennel, roasted garlic, bacon, parsley, "Nice and light for summertime" as Vinny said.

There was a time when marrow bones were given to you without cost by your favorite butcher.  No longer is that true as these particular bones.  "Here we have roasted bone marrow," Vinny explained. "They come from fresh carcasses of beef and never frozen.  Rich in flavor, the bones are not the same soup bones that most people buy.  These bones come from the femur vs. the shin.  Accompanying the roasted long bone is what would be characterized as a savory honey beef stew, which adds a sweetness to the dish, along with a pickled onion and parsley salad. Place some of the marrow on the toast along with a bit of the stew and salad." 






Spring rolls are not only an Asian fare.  It's all about what is wrapped in and the sauce served with it.  Vinny sees his appetizer as something to be served with a cold beer. The basis of the roll is Long Island Duck, vegetables, ginger juice, and rice vinegar.  Having a nice "crunch" the spiced orange dipping sauce adds a great taste.








One dish called Pasta Danielle is a sentimental one for the chef named after his sister who is views as being "best friends since they were little. Any time I write a menu I name a dish after her." This particular fresh pasta is made with a 24-hour slow cooked lamb prepared in a crook pot overnight.  It is cooked with a slow cooked prune, pearl onions and sage.

One innovative entree is the Toast Crusted Florida Grouper. Crusted with an "egg bread" it's first brushed with an herb butter on both sides so that it comes out like a grilled cheese sandwich except that it is on top of a piece of fish. It is served with two types of beets, one of which is a pickled beet salad of red and yellow beets with pickled onions and a bit of radicchio to give it a briny and bitter flavor.  The second beet accompaniment is a sweet with more of a custard texture.  Beet juice from the fresh beets is cooked down to a syrupy glaze to which heavy cream is added.  Sort of like a creme brulee filling.  A beet sauce is placed underneath and at the top of this custard along with a bit of basil oil to add an even more savory taste.








Another entree, the Long Island Duck Breast, has a focus on the crispy skin and cherry syrup. The fresh cherries are cooked down with brandy and sugar with the glaze made from the remainder of the juice.  Wild rice is cooked with duck confit, prepared using the legs and thighs which is what the chef uses to prepare the duck spring rolls.  In other words, he makes use of the entire duck.  The dish is served with a simple sauteed spinach.

Chef Vinny prides himself on his prime USDA hanger steak coming from the fresh as none of his meats are either frozen or in a cryovac bag.  "It's as good as a hanger steak gets", said Vinny. Similar to a skirt steak, although not as tender. The rest of the dish had sauteed sugar snap peas, oyster mushrooms and whatever fresh vegetables are available. Top in with a cabernet reduction and fresh bones. All of the sauces are prepared from scratch in the kitchen. Place some roasted potatoes that are first fried in duck fat and adding fresh herbs. Wait until your taste buds bounce around.

Naturally, I saved room for dessert.  Okay, there was no room but I couldn't resist and had a tasting of four items each a small portion as the desserts are meant to enjoy and not wolf down.  There was a toasted almond creme brulee;  flourless chocolate cake served with candy dusted walnuts;  strawberry soup with a bit of brandy, sugar and cinnamon, cake croutons, topped with a truffle whipped cream; and a red wine and port poached pears with a dollop of Greek yogurt.

OFF TO BREEZY POINT

Went to Breezy Point in the Rockaways to meet up with Mike Bettes of The Weather Channel.

Mike Greenstein, better known as Mighty Atom, Jr.  stopped by so I could get some photos of him.

VETRO-SPECT OF A REGIONAL TASTING

With several regions in Italy, pasta, pizza and tomato sauce are more of a former American style of cuisine as I learned from savoring a tasting by Executive Chef Michael DeGeorgio, of Vetro Restaurant and Lounge in Howard Beach.  The menu explains the course, what area it relates to and why as well as my take on these items.

Cannellini and broccoli rabe puree and burrata, from the region of Puglia.  White beans, broccoli rabe, garlic and oil cooked into a rich puree with toasted bread and tomato salad. It is plated with Burrata mozzarella, as well as an apricot and pear salad.  “Puglia is noted for having the best olive oils, vegetables, beans and seafood.  A heavy soup was made in the home.  Burrata, was created in this area.”  This course is to be eaten with a combined taste of each to savor the creaminess of the burrata, bitter and salty broccoli rabe, and sweetness of the fruit. 

Ciuppin, from the region of Liguria. Halibut, shrimp, clams and calamari cooked with tomatoes, chili pepper, garlic, and olive oil on toasted bread.  “This is a more northern area with small but fruity olive crops.  Seafood comes from off of the Northern coast. Cioppino, as it is most known, was actually created here.” I consider this to be a “seafood stew” rather than a “seafood soup”.  This dish is served with a whole red chili pepper, which I quickly removed. 

Spaghetti Calabrese from the region of Calabria.  Spaghetti sautéed with roasted eggplant, artichokes, peppers, chili, sundried tomato, anchovies, garlic and oil.  “The area is known for seafood, and a variety of peppers that include the short red chili pepper, green finger bell pepper, and cabernet. Many vegetables are grown here. With a location near Sicily, spicy stews are prominent.” 

“I keep a huge pot of boiling water on the stove and scoop out a small potful for each pasta dish that I cook.  This way the cooking method begins with boiling water to which I add the portion of pasta.  I prepare the sauce beforehand using only fresh vegetables.  When the pasta is cooked to the customer’s order, al dente to just about fully soft, I place the sauce in a pan, add the pasta and sauté until the pasta is totally coated. Pasta should always be cooked this way rather than plating the sauce over the pasta”.  

I was invited into the kitchen to watch the master watch and explain the preparations, requesting to eliminate the chili pepper and garlic, opting for some shallots instead. 

 Sogliola di Sassari from the region of Sardegna. Pan roasted halibut with lemon, tarragon, olive oil and bread crumbs. “Tarragon is an herb that is much used in Sardinia, a small island, where seafood is also prominent.  They don’t actually have halibut, but a similar smaller fish.”  The dish is served with water cress, “netted” lemon half, and fresh tarragon.   It is a perfect way to make use of the tarragon.  

 

Lombata di Vitello from the region of Velle di Aosti.  Rib veal chop grilled and stuffed with lump crab meat and wild mushrooms.  Served with Fingerling potatoes and broccoli rabe.  “This is one of my signature dishes sometimes offered on the menu.  Velle di Aosti is known for having finer meats and wild mushrooms.” 

That's Chef Michael on the left and owner Frank Russo, Jr. on the right. 

 

These courses are not offered on Vetro’s menu. I did try one of Chef Michael’s signature dishes, Lobster Cappuccino made with Maine lobster, tomatoes, cognac and foamed milk that is served with a pastry stick. 

Vetro, owned by the Russo family, is located at 164-49 Cross Bay Blvd., a few blocks from their catering Russo’s on the Bay.  Expect high quality food and fine dining at Vetro.  www.vetronyc.com