SEVEN CHEERS FOR SEVEN BROTHERS

Let’s give 7 cheers for Tony’s Meat Market now known as Seven Brothers Gourmet Food Market.  First cheer is about the family business and how it came about.

Antonio Fiorito (Tony) is an Italian immigrant who in 1969 ventured to the United States from his hometown of Naples.  After working at a small Meat Market in Jamaica, and sending the money home to his 6 brothers and 6 sisters, he had decided that it was time to have his own store.   It was called Tony’s Meat Market with a logo of Seven Brothers to describe this family owned business located on Jamaica Avenue in Woodhaven. 

This was not a “butcher shop” but a small Italian grocery with a butcher.  Tony’s was one of many staples in the Woodhaven community.  After several years, and most of the “staple businesses” gone, Tony decided that there was a need to expand.  Still living in Woodhaven, this eventual growth found its opportunity in Oceanside, Long Island. 

Here, you will find his brothers Sandro and Mario and his sister Maria doing most of the working time.   Let’s not forget about Tony’s two sons, Anthony and Joseph, first generation Americans.  

Our second cheer is for maintaining the “old time” butcher section.  If you want fresh meat, don’t expect to buy anything that is prepackaged….with the exception of burgers…hey, if that’s all you want at the butcher section, why wait on a line?

Third cheer is for the space and layout.  Most of the products are situated along the walls along with that oh so friendly staff to assist you.  You can easily get around the store and even sit down at one of a few tables to enjoy a sandwich and if need be there is a bonafide restroom to make use of.    

Cheer number four is for the chef John prepared dishes.  No, he didn’t make them up…these are recipes passed down from Tony’s mom.   I wish I could have tried them all.  The butcher section, at the front of the store, has some marinated meat such as skirt steak marinated in a teriyaki sauce or a “nosh” of Captain Crunch Chicken Fingers.   Continue down to buy:  Mini-Mini Rice balls with prosciutto and ricotta; Mini –Mini balls that’s like having a Fried Mac and Cheese; one with bacon and cheddar (hint – buy a pound and get about 15 of these); Fresh Mozzarella; Macaroni Salad; Potato Salad; Orzo Salad with arugula, feta cheese and cranberries seasoned and drizzled in olive oil; Sauteed Escarole with Cannellini Beans and garlic; stuffed artichokes. 

Turn to your left to see some hot dishes such as a rotisserie chicken and then continue to the case where you’ll find some great store made sauces like ala vodka and marinara, soups like fagioli (pasta, beans and veggies) along with a Stromboli.  It’s like taking the contents of a deli sandwich and baking it in a pastry dough. This one had pepperoni, capicola, provolone, and salami. 

Another section brings you to frozen and refrigerated products as well as shelves of imported pastas and house hold items like ceramic pasta bowls.   You’ll find the fresh ravioli in the freezer and for your shopping convenience, staples such as milk and eggs are in the refrigerator. 

That takes me to Cheer number five….where the sandwiches are prepared.   It will be a tough time choosing.  The one I had is entitled “7 Brothers” with grilled chicken, fresh mozzarella, and roasted peppers in a balsamic vinaigrette.  Very popular:  Texas Two Step – chicken cutlet, melted American, melted cheddar, onion rings, fries, with a spicy garlic sauce on a garlic hero; Call Dr. Mark – roast beef, fresh mozzarella, spinach, red onion, tomato, bacon, salt, pepper, on a garlic hero.   Have your sandwich on fresh bread, hero or a wrap.  If the list doesn’t appeal to you, go ahead, come up with the contents and they’ll make it up for you. 

Cheer number six is about what lies in the middle of the store.  Fresh vegetables, those delicious Italian cheeses like parmigiana reggiano, olive oils, vinegars, breads.  That is where you’ll find the taralli…Italian pretzels.  They are great as a snack and made with pepper or fennel as well as just plain.  Perhaps you want some Italian chocolates or Nutella.  They have both the one from the US and the one imported from Italy…not exactly the same.   Don’t miss the cookies and pastries.  Hey, they can’t be a bakery, too.  But there is a decent selection for your dessert tummy…there is always a spot in your tummy reserved just for dessert.  Have that espresso with Panettone. 

Let’s give the last cheer to the catering.  Mangia!  Sure, you can go in there and pick out all that you want to make up platters and “slave over a hot stove”.   Here are some examples of what you’ll find on the menu.  Appetizers:  various flavored chicken wings; stuffed mushrooms; baby back ribs.  Salads: fresh mozzarella with sliced tomatoes, roasted peppers, sundried tomatoes and fresh basil.  Pastas: Rigatoni Alla Bolognese; Lasagna roll-up.  Entrees: Shepherd’s Pie; Stuffed fish filet; Roasted Tuna; Veal Seven Brothers; Sausage and Broccoli Rabe. Side dishes like Asparagus Oregananta and hot antipasto.  Heroes, pastries, breads…the whole kit and caboodle.

With Christmas sneaking up, you may have thoughts of the Italian yuletide tradition of the Feast of Seven Fishes.  Word has it that the chef is setting up the following: scungille, mussels, shrimp, calamari, octopus, crab, and clams.  You may want to add the roasted salmon with capers and black olives in a marinara sauce, topped with toasted bread crumbs.

Now we get to the basic information.  Seven Brothers Gourmet Food Market, 2914 Long Beach Rd, Oceanside, NY. 516-678-5999.  Open every day, free parking in the rear.   www.sevenbrothersoceanside.com   

HIRSCHFIELD’S NINAS AND NINO’S NINOS

Al Hirschfeld, a caricaturist, was best known for his black and white portraits of celebrities, especially when it came to the Broadway theatre.   He became even more well-known for placing his daughter, Nina, in his art.  A number followed his signature designating how many times her name appeared, except in a few instances or only one time if no number.  It became a game of finding her name as people awaited the arts section of the New York Times each week or sought his books. 

Nino Selimaj, owner of Nino’s restaurants in Manhattan has a mural in his first location at 1354 First Avenue.  This mural is of celebrities with Nino in it several times and this is more like a “where’s Waldo”.  

I recently went to a tasting as they announced not just some new items on their regular menu, but weekday “happy hours” specials in the bar area served from 4 to 7 p.m., starting with some interesting $8 drinks.  

I had a Mojito and loved it. 

Others are: Spritz Aperol, Spritz Campari, Americano, Negroni, Malbec Novecento, Pinot Grigio Santa Marina and your choice of beer.

As for the food, I sampled most of the small plate items.  Nino’s Homemade Meatballs with pine nuts and raisins, roasted tomato sauce and grated parmigiano reggiano.  Bruchetta with tomato sauce and mozzarella. An assortment of olives and cheese. Rigatoni and Vodka in a pink sauce with parm cheese.  Penne with braised veal, roasted peppers, scallions and olive oil (asked to eliminate the garlic).   

I was also interested to try one of the chef’s signature dishes.  Nino suggested the Veal Scallopini with prociutto and melted Fontana , leeks, mushrooms, fingerling potatoes and lemon sage. 

My taste buds were almost at the end of their party as I was a bit curious about the desserts that were made on the premises.  I tend to pass on a ricotta cheese cake as I find them to be less dry and smooth than a cream cheese cake.  However, this was perfect.  Bravo to them.

Check it all out on www.ninosnyc.com

VETRO-SPECT OF A REGIONAL TASTING

With several regions in Italy, pasta, pizza and tomato sauce are more of a former American style of cuisine as I learned from savoring a tasting by Executive Chef Michael DeGeorgio, of Vetro Restaurant and Lounge in Howard Beach.  The menu explains the course, what area it relates to and why as well as my take on these items.

Cannellini and broccoli rabe puree and burrata, from the region of Puglia.  White beans, broccoli rabe, garlic and oil cooked into a rich puree with toasted bread and tomato salad. It is plated with Burrata mozzarella, as well as an apricot and pear salad.  “Puglia is noted for having the best olive oils, vegetables, beans and seafood.  A heavy soup was made in the home.  Burrata, was created in this area.”  This course is to be eaten with a combined taste of each to savor the creaminess of the burrata, bitter and salty broccoli rabe, and sweetness of the fruit. 

Ciuppin, from the region of Liguria. Halibut, shrimp, clams and calamari cooked with tomatoes, chili pepper, garlic, and olive oil on toasted bread.  “This is a more northern area with small but fruity olive crops.  Seafood comes from off of the Northern coast. Cioppino, as it is most known, was actually created here.” I consider this to be a “seafood stew” rather than a “seafood soup”.  This dish is served with a whole red chili pepper, which I quickly removed. 

Spaghetti Calabrese from the region of Calabria.  Spaghetti sautéed with roasted eggplant, artichokes, peppers, chili, sundried tomato, anchovies, garlic and oil.  “The area is known for seafood, and a variety of peppers that include the short red chili pepper, green finger bell pepper, and cabernet. Many vegetables are grown here. With a location near Sicily, spicy stews are prominent.” 

“I keep a huge pot of boiling water on the stove and scoop out a small potful for each pasta dish that I cook.  This way the cooking method begins with boiling water to which I add the portion of pasta.  I prepare the sauce beforehand using only fresh vegetables.  When the pasta is cooked to the customer’s order, al dente to just about fully soft, I place the sauce in a pan, add the pasta and sauté until the pasta is totally coated. Pasta should always be cooked this way rather than plating the sauce over the pasta”.  

I was invited into the kitchen to watch the master watch and explain the preparations, requesting to eliminate the chili pepper and garlic, opting for some shallots instead. 

 Sogliola di Sassari from the region of Sardegna. Pan roasted halibut with lemon, tarragon, olive oil and bread crumbs. “Tarragon is an herb that is much used in Sardinia, a small island, where seafood is also prominent.  They don’t actually have halibut, but a similar smaller fish.”  The dish is served with water cress, “netted” lemon half, and fresh tarragon.   It is a perfect way to make use of the tarragon.  

 

Lombata di Vitello from the region of Velle di Aosti.  Rib veal chop grilled and stuffed with lump crab meat and wild mushrooms.  Served with Fingerling potatoes and broccoli rabe.  “This is one of my signature dishes sometimes offered on the menu.  Velle di Aosti is known for having finer meats and wild mushrooms.” 

That's Chef Michael on the left and owner Frank Russo, Jr. on the right. 

 

These courses are not offered on Vetro’s menu. I did try one of Chef Michael’s signature dishes, Lobster Cappuccino made with Maine lobster, tomatoes, cognac and foamed milk that is served with a pastry stick. 

Vetro, owned by the Russo family, is located at 164-49 Cross Bay Blvd., a few blocks from their catering Russo’s on the Bay.  Expect high quality food and fine dining at Vetro.  www.vetronyc.com