FINISHING PHILLY

Having written a few on Philly, I still have one more focus...namely, the Q-Fest.  It was opening night for this GLBT film festival.

Philly is noted for having a “Gayborhood”, located in the downtown area.  My focus was on the Q-Fest, an annual GLBT film festival.  Opening night had the award winning movie called Elliot Love.  Expect it to be out on DVD. Festival went from July 12 to 22^nd with some other excellent movies and after parties. Movie venue was at one basic movie theatre.  You can see the fest by going to www.qfest.com. 

I checked into the luxurious Loews Philadelphia Hotel, located on Market and 12th.  This former bank, first sky scraper built in Philly, has some fabulous views of the downtown area.  City Hall is just a few blocks away going uptown and a the walk in the other direction will take you to Independence Plaza and ultimately Penns Landing with Reading Market just across the way.

I loved my room.  It was in a corner with an almost panoramic view.  Having a refrigerator is helpful for both leftovers and a supply of bottled water.  Being on a floor with access to the concierge club, I was able to have a nutritious breakfast each morning as the buffet was way above, "Continental".

A spa called Breathe is located in a huge fitness center. With a menu of massages, body treatments and facials, it was the later that I choose.  A most fabulous esthetician donned a facial that made my skin soft and supple.  Most of the facial centered on massaging it while putting on and taking off all kinds of skin care.  In addition, my shoulders and feet got a massage as well so that they wouldn't feel left out.

Sole Food is the name of the restaurant located on the ground floor, lobby level specializing in...seafood.
A chef's tasting included: Snapper Filet with calamari escabeche, swiss chard, red bliss potatoes, saffron aoili; Grilled Spanish Octopus with fingerling potatoes, melted leeks, citrus, chorizo vinaigrette; Pastrami Pork Belly of which the pork is in brine for 4 days, smoked 4 hours, covered with a pastrami crust and served with a roasted tomato jam; Seared Diver Scallops with freshly made ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese and corn, served with salty corn and truffle butter; Grilled NY Strip Steak with trumpet mushrooms, crisp potato, bleu cheese, shallots and tomatoes.  

FINDING PHILLY MUSEUMS

With so many museums it seems that Philadelphia has added two more in the last few years; the Barnes Foundation and the National Museum of American Jewish History.  Both located in the area known as Center City, I ventured out to experience them.

Let me begin by saying that I took Amtrak from Penn Station. If you travel at off hours you can wind up paying about the price of a bus ride.  Amtrak is so much less than traveling by air and without the long lines for both check in and security.  I noticed people with lots of baggage as well as Red Cap service.  Business class will up the price of about $15 and consider that it is a lot cheaper than the difference between coach and first class on an airline.  The trip itself will take longer than going by air but take into account the time you have to be at the airport before your plane leaves as well as the weather and how close you can arrive at your destination, which may be closer than the airport.

When I arrived at the 30th Street Station there were options to getting to my hotel.  Although I made my way with just a backpack...I'll tell you how to do it...I would have opted for a taxi.  There are several ways to get around Philly, one of which is the off and on Trolly Works that is part tour which costs $27 for adults an operating from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. (weekends until 6 p.m.).  

Phlash, another trolley, picks up every 15 minutes from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and not on all weekends.  With 19 stops, it will cost you $2 per person per ride.  An individual all-day PhlashPass is just $10, and an all-day family Phlash pass (two adults and two children ages 6-17) is just $15. Children under 5 and seniors are always free.  Forgot to tell the driver how old I was. 

Then there is the SEPTA, their subway system, which will take you further than Center City, the downtown area. 

The Barnes Foundation, which recently opened, is located at 2025 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, just near the Rodin Museum.  I'm going to describe my experience of it and all about art.  It's like Albert C. Barnes and Laura L. Barnes had a huge art collection and needed a building to put them in.   Then they asked some friends if they wanted to house their art collection as well.   I didn't ask for a docent to take me around nor did I rent an audio tour.  For me,  not a lover of the fine arts, it was inundating.   I felt as if I needed a GPS to get around and wasn't sure as to whether I was in that same room again.   I didn't notice that there are numbers on each of the entrances.  

Diversification is the key to the art (some of which is sculpture as well) which reflects a broad range of periods and culture.  A docent one-hour tour costs $40;  an audio rental is $5.   Each of the rooms has a "book" that will tell you about each of the paintings.    General admission is $18 for adults.   I know that there is horticulture involved with the museum but time did not permit me to explore.  

The National Museum of American Jewish History, a Smithsonian affiliate, tells the story of American Jews who have arrived to North America from 1654 to the present.  Exhibiting and interpreting the American Jewish experience this five story building located on Independence Mall is the only museum in the nation dedicated solely to telling the story of Jews in America.  They moved from a smaller building near the same area.

With 25,000 square feet of gallery space on almost four floors, the core exhibition explores the challenges that Jews faced, celebrating their experiences in every part of American life as well as every phase of this country's history.  

Featured are more than1,200 artifacts, original films and 13 state-of-the-art interactive displays including "Only in America" Gallery/Hall of Fame of Jewish Americans with remarkable achievements.  Among the first 18 honorees are Louis Brandeis, Albert Einstein, Estee Lauder, Jonas Salk, Steven Spielberg and Barbara Streisand. 

Currently, and until Sept. 30, 2012,  the main exhibit is called "To Bigotry No Sanction", an historic correspondence between George Washington and the Jewish community of Newport. Washington's iconic address to "the children of the stock of Abraham" placed an emphasis on the confirmation of his commitment to a government that "gives to bigotry no sanction".  

On display is an array of documents, publications and portraits from both American and American Jewish History that include: a public printing of the letter from George Washington to the Jews of Savannah; First public printing of the US Constitution; and the original correspondence between Washington and the Hebrew Congregation of Newport.  

I found this museum to be overwhelming as there is so much to see.  Looking back I would have a full breakfast and get there at 10 a.m.  Break for something to drink at their cafe after two hours, and continue for another two hours.  No photos, so you may want to take notes.  They close at 5 p.m.  Basic cost is $12 for adults.  Check it out on www.nmajh.org.  

LE VIRTU

With all of the Italian restaurant in Philly, I chose one called Le Virtu, located at 1927 East Passyunk Avenue. Their website read, "The inspiration for Le Virtu (The Virtues) comes from our experience at the tables of family, friends and farm restaurants all over Abruzzo. Every dish we prepare is rooted in or inspired by Abruzzese culinary tradition, ingredients or philosophy. We serve the cuisine of the shepherds, farmers and fishermen of Italy's wildest and most unspoiled region."  I knew I wouldn't be getting a plate of lasagne or meat balls and spaghetti.

Le Virtu's owners are Francis Cratil Cretarola and Catherine Lee (who gave me a list and description of the appetizer platter).  Executive Chef Joe Cicala worked on a menu tasting beginning with the Affettati Misri, selection of house-cured salumi and assorted antipasti.  It consisted of : capicolla, pancetta (pork belly), guanciole (pork cheek), loriza (pork loin), prosciutto d'anatia (duck prosciutto); ricotta allo zafferano (saffron-infused sheep milk ricotta); eggplant oreganata (mrinated eggplant), peperoni anostiti (roasted peppers); and cipolle e carote agrodolce (pickled red onion and carrots).  I'm so happy that I was able to try burrata, fresh mozzarella stuffed with what appears to be a combination of ricotta and cream.

I was most interested in having rabbit this evening since I saw it being prepared at D'Angelo's.  In fact, that is where Joe gets his rabbit.  I first tried it in an appetizer portion of fresh ribbon pasta in a rabbit ragu.  That was followed by rabbit "porchetta" style served with lemon potatoes. 

One specialty of Joe is a thick single strand of pasta that he created from simply flour and water.  

Desserts are the responsibility of Angela RAnalli.  I had the Napolione al Cioccolato e cocco...a flourless chocolate cake with coconut pastry cream along with cherry panna cotta made with amarena cherries.

I also took a few photos of the garden with its fabulous mural and herb wall.   

PHILADELPHIA'S ITALIAN MARKET

I went to Philadelphia and believe it or not I did not have a pretzel or Philly Cheese Steak.  After a comfortable Amtrak trip, that seemed shorter than expected, I was escorted to an area known as the Italian Market.  During certain hours, the wares are presented as you pass down the streets, the location of which is mostly South 9th Street.  In fact if you go to the website of www.phillyitalianmarket.com you'll get the inside scoop.

While planning my trip I spoke with a member of the American-Italy Society after viewing this information on their website. "It was 1956 when a violinist with the Philadelphia Orchestra and the new Italian consul general discovered a mutual love of 18th century Italian chamber music, and from their impulse to share Italian music and culture, the America-Italy Society was born.

"Today, the Society, located at 1420 Walnut Street in Center City, has 750 members and a broad range of activities. Still at its core is the free concert series of the Amerita Chamber Players, all of whom are members of the Philadelphia Orchestra, and an extensive Italian language program.

"In a little more than fifty years, the America-Italy Society of Philadelphia has established itself as a center for all who thrive on the beauty of the Italian language and derive inspiration from Italian arts and culture."

Food time!  My first tasting was at DAnglelo Brothers where they specialize in game meats all of which are farm raises and hormone free.  Sonny DAngelo invited me for a tasting of a variety of prosciutos and salamis made with ingredients such as boar, duck, and venison. 

On to cheeses. There were two places and totally different. Unfortunately I only had time for one and not the one I have a photo of the outside of...Di Bruno Bros.  It was Claudio's King of Cheese where I did a tasting of many imported Italian cheeses.  With lots imported groceries as well, I passed on them so as not to load me down for my return ride to NYC.  Not only did I sample fresh mozzarella but one that was made with black truffles.

It's dessert time so I'm off to Isgro Pastries, located off of 9th on Christian Street.  They have been in business since 1904.   Sfogliatella was my first pick. I love the combination of crunchiness and cheese.  One of my "tests" in a cannoli.  This one was different as it has mascarpone  and ricotta cheese instead of just ricotta cheese.  I'm told it is what they use for their tiramisu.  Quite creamy and a great idea.  Noshed a few almond cookies as well.

Lastly was my indulgence in gelato as Capogiro at 119 South 13th Street near my hotel.  I really did a tasting there.  The best combination for me was a dark chocolate sorbet paired with a hazelnut gelato.  Wow, was that awesome.  It turned out that another customer loved the same combo.