FISHING FOR A CHRISTMAS FEAST

Celebrated by Italian-American families across the U.S., the Feast of Seven Fishes recognizes the wait for the midnight birth of Jesus, also known as the Vigilia di Natale. It is typical for the family to gather around a feast of seven different seafood dishes a few different types of fish prepared in seven different ways.

Each of about 20 regions in Italy have their own culinary tradition for the cena della Vigilia, or Christmas Eve dinner. For example, families in Piemonte celebrate with agnolotti, fresh pasta filled with meat; in Sardegna, you can expect malloreddus, small semolina gnocchi usually served in a sauce with tuna and fresh cherry tomatoes and in Roma, the tradition calls for minestra di pesce, fish-based soup.

How did this all come about?  The ancient tradition of eating fish on Christmas Eve seems to date from a Roman Catholic custom of abstaining from meat and dairy products on the eve of certain holidays that include Christmas.  The number seven,  can be connected to multiple Catholic symbols such as that seven seems be repeated more than 700 times in the Bible. In addition, according to the Roman Catholic Church, seven are the sacraments, the deadly sins, and the days of the Creation. 

 

Enough with the history.  Let’s get to the fish.  People tend to confuse the word “seafood” and “fish.”  When I ask someone if they like “fish” and they say that they don’t will give a positive response to seafood such as shrimp and lobster, which are shellfish.   Seafood is all that comes from the sea. 

There has been a recent findings by the New York State Attorney General in which fish are being mislabeled.  For instance, there a difference between wild-caught salmon and farm raised salmon.  Farm-raised salmon is generally fatty, mild in flavor, and a soft pink-orange hue.  

Wild salmon will give you a stronger salmon-y flavor and color, more red-orange than pink producing one that more savory. Why mislabel it? The price of wild-caught is much higher than farm-raised.  

Red Snapper is another fraud.  There are many fish that look it but not the real thing and the mislabeling seems to be happening in supermarkets.  The third one is swai sold as lemon sole.  

Fish markets that sell only seafood and not groceries, and produce, are your best bet especially ones that have a long reputation for being true and being fresh.  Who better to get information about the fish and the feast but from Vincent Marinello the co-owner owner of Crossbay Seashell Fish Market, located at 161-14 Crossbay Blvd. in Howard Beach.  “My family comes from a small fishing village in Sicily called Sciacca,” said Vinny. “As a teen my dad (Luigi) would work on a fishing boat along with his brothers. He would be out at sea for days and at times for weeks. My uncle retired around 10 years ago, and sold his share of the business to Pat Marotta, who is currently my partner.”

Walk into the market and you’ll view dozens of fish filet under the glass case.  Up front is where the whole fish, and much of the shellfish is resting on ice. “We purchase the majority of our fish at the Hunts Point Market in the Bronx. The whole fish that we carry is Florida red snapper, bronzino, porgies, brook trout, whiting, flounder, mackerel, salmon, sea bass, and others that are seasonal. Pat normally goes to the market 2 to 3 times per week”

One other thing to take not of is when you buy fish that is labeled “frozen and thawed.”  You should never refreeze it and that includes shrimp. Other than items shown in the freezer section, all of the fish is fresh. 

Let’s get to some thoughts on the Feast.  Lobster fra diavolo (spicy lobster with pasta in tomato sauce) is a very popular dish that adds sole (vs soul) topped with olives, shrimps, scallops and mussels. You will have to go elsewhere for the pastas and Italian bread.   

Beat whole fish idea is to roast a whole branzino with fennel, onions white wine, thyme and zest of an orange. Vinny or Pat will clean the branzino for you.

How about Stuffed Calamari with claw Crab meat?  The high quality meat is sold in a can.  Just talk to the guys and they will take care of what you need as well as telling you how to cook it. You can set up a cocktail appetizer using a cluster of snow crab.   

If you’re looking for a one dish inclusive, head to Mama’s of Corona as Irene is preparing a great cold seafood salad that will most likely take care of seven fishes.  The deli is located at 46-02 104^th  Street.  What is a feast without dessert?  Head for Mama’s Backyard Café, located at 46-10 104^th St., for all you pastries and breads.  With Irene cooking her heart out at their deli she also prepares her delicious marinara sauce and that’s one less thing for you to do.  HAPPY HOLIDAYS!