ARTISTRY OF COOKING WHERE PREPARATION AND TASTE TRANSCEND THE CUISINE

“Elvis is finally in the house.”  You could hear those words muttered at the 3^rd Annual Chicken Soup Cookoff, held last year at the Temple Beth Sholom in Flushing. For the past two years prior, Chef Elvis’ spicy Caribbean style chicken soup came in first place from both the judges and People’s Choice awards.  Not so in this one as Elvis had competition from a new entry, Tropical Revival, whose chicken soup seemed even a bit more “peppery”.  Nevertheless, Tropical Revival came in first from both judging groups with Elvis taking second place.  

 

Who would have thought that having a most peppery soup would be such a crowd pleaser.  Late arrival Elvis toted his soup from his restaurant on Long Island, while Tropical Revival owner Albert Teekasingh made an early entrance coming from Whitestone.  I think they were aware of their competitor as along with Elvis’s soup, a tray of mac and cheese was sitting alongside as an addition taster.  Albert had a tray of what for me was the best tasting buttery soft corn bread.  There is fresh corn in the bread and a secret ingredient that makes it so soft and flavorful. 

What was in the chicken soup?  Let’s begin with that Albert only uses cut up dark meat on the bone from fresh killed chickens. Cut up pieces of corn on the cob, yellow split peas, carrots, sweet potatoes, yucca, plantains, are added.  Habanero peppers are the “kick” in the soup and he doesn’t yell the word “bam” when he adds it. 

I was forced (twist my arm) to seek out Albert’s restaurant, located at 12-40 Clintonville Street, in a small shopping center with two floors of stores.  It was easy to spot the boasting award signs and not just due to the Chicken Soup Cookoff  as I arrived at what I believed to be a less busy time. 

Albert and his sister Elizabeth were behind the counter. Most of the food choices were resting each separately on the steam table. Although there is seating for about 12 people, most customers pop in and take out.  The menu changes every day depending upon what Albert (along with Elizabeth) want to prepare. 

I interviewed Albert and sampled much of the food to find that the artistry of preparation and taste that transcended the cuisine to the point of not even taking in account its “ethnicity.”  

It was back in his childhood days in Guyana that Albert learned to cook watching his mother and grandmother involved in the catering business.  That is what got him his start here catering companies such as Home Depot. 

He soon vied for a spot catering school lunches as four-year-olds and other kids were tired of eating bland foods now catering 4 Catholic Schools.  The children only noticed the flavors and enjoyed the spices.  One of the choices is rice with spinach that is “garlicky.” He does cut back on the habanero but tends to use dishes made with a curry.  Another is a lo mein (not of the Asian ilk) with vegetables. The one I sampled also had jumbo shrimp.  

It was now time to secure a restaurant only a few years ago.  Albert begins the food preparation at about 4 am, opening the restaurant at about 11:30 am.  There are no frozen foods used in any of his dishes, not even the most popular and sought out Oxtail (It does not come from an ox, but a cow). In fact it goes so quickly that you have to call ahead of time to see if there is any left. This 4-6 hour dish is simmered and not pressure cooked using onions, garlic, thyme, sweet pepper, cilantro and scallions marinated for hours prior to the cooking. 

 

Here is where I have to “share.”  While tasting and talking a man from Uber Eats came to take photos of the food. Yes, it means that you’ll be able to fill you tummy with goodness using an app.  The man is Chinese born.  I purposely asked because I had gone to a Chinese restaurant that served oxtail and was a bit surprised as I had never seen this on an Asian menu.  I wanted to tell him this but got interrupted. Before the man left, Albert asked if there was anything that he wished to take home and he said, “oxtail.”  I had to laugh. 

Enough chat….let’s get to the food.  I started with his famous soup and although it was still as peppery managed to get past it finding that my throat was not affected but my lips were a bit.  Now I was able to totally understand the “win.” 

Curry dishes are not my favorite due to one particular ingredient – cumin. Don’t enjoy the taste and find that I have a slight allergy as well. I had brought my food buddy, Deveka who was born in Surinam.  Give her a peppery tasting item and she will still request hot sauce to go with it. Not this time though as Albert’s combination of herbs and spices pleased her palate well.  

Curry is not a spice but a mixture of spices. Albert combines: onions, garlic, cumin, and masala.  One of the selections was Crab with Curry using snow crab, coconut milk and a root vegetable known as eddoes, related to the taro family. 

   

Baked Chicken and Curried Chicken were two other items as well as Pumpkin Shrimp using both pumpkin and butternut squash.  I have yet to have Curried Duck of which Albert goes directly to a place where he can pick out a live duck. 

“Sides” are served with the main item, including rice and red beans, rice and pigeon peas, the rice with spinach, roti, dahl and macaroni pie (a form of mac and cheese). 

“Jerk” mains are available in the form of Jerk Chicken and Jerk Pork.  Spicy, but not so peppery. If you happen to be there on a Saturday, Albert might just have made his “fall off the bone” spare ribs.   

This entrepreneur is not stopping at having the catering and restaurant.  There are two more ideas in the making.

Tropical Revival is open from 11:30 am to 7pm, closed on Sunday and Monday. (917) 563-7879