There are two cuisines that tourists seek out in the United States for authenticity. Does a city have a "Chinatown" or "Little Italy"? In St. Louis, Missouri I encountered what I would term "Big Italy" and area known as The Hill, with the colors of the Italian flag as the background of the title.
Aside from the dozens of great Italian restaurants the Hill is also one of the city's most tightly-knit Italian-American communities. I visit to the are revealed a sense of people who greeted each other and most likely attend church together for both worship and social meetings as well as a number of Italian societies.
For instance, there is The Fratellanza, the oldest Italian American organization in the United States. The Fratellanza Society was organized on November 11, 1866 and was incorporated on December 6, 1866 as a fraternal and benevolent society under the Societá Unione e Fratellanza Italiana (Italian Fraternal Union).
Of course, what truly counts to a visitor is the Italian specialties available as I began my tour with Volpi's to sample the salami and prosciutto. I sampled the prosciutto to compare with what they produce with the imported Parma from Italy finding it to be a little less salty and just as good.
Onto Di Gregorio's Market feeling lie a "kid in a candy store". We are looking at groceries that are imported from Italy. Wines, olive oils, vinegars, canned tomatoes, cheeses, and more. They have kitchenware and cookware. Head to the deli counter for salads and a variety of their store made sausage. I met with manager Toni Ribaudo for a tour of the store.
Larry Fuse, Jr. is the owner of both Gelato di Riso and Lorenzo's Trattoria. Gelato drew me as I wanted to see how authentic it was. A glorious variety of flavors; no disappointment.
Off to Missouri Baking Company as Mimi Lordo gave me a view of the kitchen as well as a taste of a cannoli, biscotti, cupcake, cookies and cinnamon raisin bread. Unfortunately they were out of sforgiatellis.
I later dined at Lorenzo's Trattoria where mostly Northern Italian is featured. What did I eat? Appetizer of fried shrimp and calamari. Carpaccio with watercress, truffle oil and shaved parmesan cheese. Ossobuco, braised with saffron risotto and orange gremolata. Was simply in the mood for a good carrot cake and more gelato.
If you would like to experience the Hill, check out Joe DeGregorio Guided Tours of The Hill, which provides an opportunity to learn about the neighborhood lasting from 2 to 6 hours to include:
• A lecture at St. Ambrose Church on the colorful history of the Italian immigration to the area, why they came and stayed, plus a primer on local Italian-American culture and customs, with highlights of the significant differences between the Northern and Southern Italian immigrants.
The culinary, architectural and religious aspects of the neighborhood will be covered plus the current climate and challenges of continuing time honored traditions. The presentation, as with featured stops listed below, will include numerous colorful stories of the hardworking and proud families-and celebrities- who have made the Hill so remarkable.
• A ravioli making demonstration at Mama Toscano's. This third generation run store is one of the few markets remaining in the US that make commercial ravioli by hand. The visitors will see for themselves this ancient and meticulous process.
• A visit to wonderful Italian markets such as DiGregorio's, Viviano's, Volpi's and Urzi's is almost a must during your sojourn. Savor and sample delicious wine, tasty cheeses, unique imported and locally made delicacies; learn the history of these stores and of course feel free to browse or purchase some of these epicurean delights. You will find an array of Italian made crafts and souvenirs awaiting you as well.
• A tour Wednesday through Saturday can include a stroll through Girasole', an Italian craft store that besides jewelry, offers cook books and literature.
For further information go to www.explorestlouis.com
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